Safest way to remove a bridge (titebond I'm pretty sure)

[Dave Bagwill]

Is there a goof-proof way to remove a bridge and not remove any of the top material or damage the finish?? This would be on a Martin and I'm pretty sure that titebond was used.

It would take some time, but planing it down - feasible? I've removed a couple of bridges and got lucky, I think - one was using John Hall's method of tapping around the perimeter of the bridge with a chisel until it pops off. That actually worked but I was sweating bullets the entire time. I did use a small heat blanket that Ken Cierp loaned me some time ago (Ken you will get it back :-)) and I had some success with that. But the planing if done correctly seems to be labor intensive but doable.
Any ideas?
Thanks

[Tim Benware]

Use the little blanket again to heat it up. I use an artist spatula to wedge under the bridge. I go no further than about half way but all around the perimeter. Go slow and be sure you have heated the bridge to around 145-150*. You'll feel the underside of the top start to get warm. This is the spatula I use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liquitex-Palett ... 19c2e76e8c

Very sturdy yet thin. I heat it up in my knife oven first but you could use a hot plate or just use it at room temp. Other shapes and sizes will work good too. I like this knife because I can use it to release the tongue as well.

Edit - place some tape around the bridge perimeter to help protect the top about 1/8" away out to where your knife can safely sit on the tape.

[Dave Bagwill]

Thanks Tim - I'd best get one of those pallet knives before I take on the job. Local paint store (Miller's) might have something like it.

[ken cierp]

Can't say that I have had to remove a lot of bridges -- the problem I saw was that the bridge popped off. BTW usually because the instrument was expose to excessive heat yep, hide glue is reversible alright -- those are the ones I saw most! Anyway, the tool I made was suggested by Don Teeter and it is simply a 1 1/2" putty knife with the edge actually thinned and sharpened. Tape around the perimeter to prevent damage -- Don points out that the angle and flex of the putty knife tends to leverage off the bridge as opposed to trying to slide under it as would the case with the pallet blade. I certainly not sure what works best.

And yes you tap the putty knife with a mallet.

[Tim Benware]

Can't say that I have had to remove a lot of bridges -- the problem I saw was that the bridge popped off. BTW usually because the instrument was expose to excessive heat yep, hide glue is reversible alright -- those are the ones I saw most! Anyway, the tool I made was suggested by Don Teeter and it is simply a 1 1/2" putty knife with the edge actually thinned and sharpened. Tape around the perimeter to prevent damage -- Don points out that the angle and flex of the putty knife tends to leverage off the bridge as opposed to trying to slide under it as would the case with the pallet blade. I certainly not sure what works best.

And yes you tap the putty knife with a mallet.

Probably just a matter of which method works best for one, Ken. I have Teeter's books and tried his method but found the other works better for me. The knife I use is much like his just wider (he may not have had one like it in his day?). Either way if done correctly will get it off without damage.

[Dave Bagwill]

Do I understand correctly, that the Teeter method does not involve heat?
If I choose heat - and the bridge is not to be salvaged, btw - would an iron work, with the right spatula,whatever , if precautions were taken to protect the top?

[Tim Benware]

Do I understand correctly, that the Teeter method does not involve heat?
If I choose heat - and the bridge is not to be salvaged, btw - would an iron work, with the right spatula,whatever , if precautions were taken to protect the top?

Teeter talks about heating but then gives some warnings like if a bridge is finished instead of waxed/oiled. He shows the spatula and plastic hammer method also warning to be sure you watch which way you're going because on a book matched set the grain runs in opposite direction on each half. When he shows how to lift the extension he uses an "iron." Seems his preferred method is no heat. I wonder if he is doing it on mostly HHG constructed instruments and not the other type glues used today, I don't know. I've had no problems with heat and I've taken a lot of bridges off.