Tru Oil Prep
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The purpose of this forum site is to provide a means for acoustic guitar makers at all skill levels to forward information, share experience and ask questions if project obstacles are encountered. We ask that egos be left at the door – the highest levels of courtesy and respect are to be shown to all. Posts containing disparaging comments will be removed. The “Acoustic Guitar Construction Forum” is owned by Kenneth Michael Guitars and is copy protected. Direct links to luthier suppliers are not permitted and will be edited.
The purpose of this forum site is to provide a means for acoustic guitar makers at all skill levels to forward information, share experience and ask questions if project obstacles are encountered. We ask that egos be left at the door – the highest levels of courtesy and respect are to be shown to all. Posts containing disparaging comments will be removed. The “Acoustic Guitar Construction Forum” is owned by Kenneth Michael Guitars and is copy protected. Direct links to luthier suppliers are not permitted and will be edited.
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Tru Oil Prep
Have completed my first guitar and am ready to apply the finish. Even though there has been plenty of good information already posted on Tru Oil application I still have a few questions. Does the guitar need to be wiped down with anything other than a damp rag? I will be pore filling with TO. Is 50 to 50 the correct ratio of mineral spirits and TO? From what I have read it looks like 2 pore filling sessions should do the trick. To what grit should the second session be sanded to? Any input would be appreciated. Thankyou. Jon
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
Hi Jon - You can raise the grain on the wood with a slightly dampened cloth, or a little bit of denatured alcohol, then sand to 220 or so.
Then apply a thin coat of straight TO and let it cure overnight.
Next day, use some 220 wrapped over a block - a big eraser works well - and put a few drops of TO on the paper and WITH the grain, sand a small area at a time; a slurry will form, and you want that slurry to fill the pores. Push it into the pores using fingers, or a credit card , mashing it in at 45 degrees or so to the grain direction. It goes quickly.
It is not a process I particularly enjoy. I've gone to an easier way (for me) which is to pore fill with zinnser seal coat. Wipe on a thin coat of sealcoat, let it dry 2 hours or so, then remove the surface coat with 0000 steel wool, or a scotchbrite pad - anything that will take off the shellac without removing any wood, just leaving the shellac in the pores. Takes two or three apps but does a fine job, and once the pores are filled, the TO can be applied in the regular method.
Then apply a thin coat of straight TO and let it cure overnight.
Next day, use some 220 wrapped over a block - a big eraser works well - and put a few drops of TO on the paper and WITH the grain, sand a small area at a time; a slurry will form, and you want that slurry to fill the pores. Push it into the pores using fingers, or a credit card , mashing it in at 45 degrees or so to the grain direction. It goes quickly.
It is not a process I particularly enjoy. I've gone to an easier way (for me) which is to pore fill with zinnser seal coat. Wipe on a thin coat of sealcoat, let it dry 2 hours or so, then remove the surface coat with 0000 steel wool, or a scotchbrite pad - anything that will take off the shellac without removing any wood, just leaving the shellac in the pores. Takes two or three apps but does a fine job, and once the pores are filled, the TO can be applied in the regular method.
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
Thankyou Dave. Where would one find the Zinnser sealcoat? Also I am taking your advice I found elsewhere on the forum to practice on scrap. I ordered some lower grade mahogany. Again thanks for explaining both options. Jon
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
The sealcoat - I get it at Home depot, Lowe's, ace hardware, almost any paint store. Just call ahead and see if they have it.
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
Thanks again. I will check around.
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- Posts: 73
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
Hi Dave. Just wanted to let you know that I went the Zinnser sealcoat route for pore filling. I put on 3 coats using 0000 synthetic steel wool between coats. For me it was very user friendly and did a fantastic job. After reading all I could on applying TO I have 7 thin coats on a piece of scrap. It is really looking good. After viewing your video and reading all i could on TO application I decided to follow your method very closely. I plan on 5 more to coats then letting it cure before trying my hand at bringing it up to a high gloss. I have been using the 0000 synthetic steel wool between coats. I am confident enough to start the process for real on the guitar. I may have questons later on bringing it up to a glossy surface but as for now a big thanks to you and others for all the good info that you have passed on. Jon
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Re: Tru Oil Prep
Jon - good for you for taking the time to practice, that will pay off greatly. I'm really interested in what you are doing.
I think letting it cure for a couple of weeks or more will be rewarded when you go to rubbing out/buffing.
I think letting it cure for a couple of weeks or more will be rewarded when you go to rubbing out/buffing.
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