Acoustic Guitar Construction

Thanks Greg and Herman, I appreciate it.

Thanks also Dave. I learned to do tru oil from you on the forum here, but I’ll post how I do it at present.

Supplies:

Tru oil, extra large cotton balls, squares of well washed good quality t shirts, paper towels or shop towels folded to fit around a backer to make a wiper. I use a 3M scotch pad. And finally I use 0000 synthetic steel wool pads for between coats. After all is prepped and sanded and ready for finish stop and check it out carefully. There’s probably a scratch or flaw that will be magnified under finish. Make sure it’s good to go. I usually apply one or two coats of shellac on the top. Pore fill back and sides with whatever method you choose.

Then you begin applying the coats. In the early stages you’ll use more oil than later. I will do two coats a day if possible, morning and evening, using the synthetic steel wool between coats. Sometimes I’ll only do one coat a day depending on time permitting. I usually do at least 12-15 coats and sometimes more. You’re done when you stop seeing improvements and you’re satisfied. Then I’ll let cure for a couple of weeks before gluing the bridge on and stringing it up.




Hope this may be of use to someone.

John

Thanks for the information on True Oil, Ever since seeing Dave information I have been meaning to try it. Your post pushes me a bit closer to giving it a try.

Thanks John, very nice video.
Did you do any pore filling before the TO, or did the pores fill fine with repeated applications of the TO
Wait - I just re-read and you do pore-fill - what is your method for that?

I haven’t yet found the perfect pore fill and it’s an area I certainly have not achieved stellar results. I seem to get close with epoxy pore fill though.

John

At last a bit of progress. I like to let the finish harden for a couple of weeks before I glue the bridges on. I had gotten a new vacuum pump a few months ago and it’s time to give it a run.

When I mark the location of the bridge I have begun using 3/16” dowels as registration pins at the outside holes. I drill just through the top and ever so slightly into the bridge plate, being careful not to go through at this point. When it’s time to glue the bridge on I insert two short dowels flush with the underside, spread the glue, push the dowels out slightly and position it on the top. The pins give it a very firm no slip position and when I use the vacuum clamp it’s no worry process. At the 8-10 minute mark I turn off vacuum, remove the vacuum clamp and clean up glue squeeze out. Then back on with the vacuum clamp for an additional thirty minutes. Now I’ll let it sit for at least 24 hours before routing the saddle slot.
Thanks for following along.

John

That is a great idea using the dowels though the pin holes. Looks like it all went well.

Finished! It’s starting to open up. I’ll get a sound clip up soon.
John