A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition

[Kevin in California]

I have heard that...but I've never had a headstock break on me, but then I don't know if that 1969 Honner Contessa dred was solid or scarfed headstock! My fender all maple acoustic has a solid headstock but the heel is different. The block is comprised of two pieces laminated vertically instead of horizontally and then glued to the shaft. Definite change in grain direction showing, and it doesn't bother me much. Of course these things don't show as much with mahogany as with woods like maple..and yes, darker is better I believe.

Kevin

[Kevin in California]

I bent the first side tonight. It is still in the machine until tomorrow night. Most of you know how this works, but for those newbies, I'll show and explain. I made this bending machine and it uses 3 x 150 watt light bulbs for a heat source. The mold is removable and will take any other mold shape made to fit. The form hollow and is covered in very thin sheet metal to hold the heat in so it can build up. It gets up to 300 degrees in about 12 minutes inside. The heat that gets to the side being bent is less than that, but not much.
So I have two slats of stainless steel that the side fits inbetween. I have spritzed the side with water to the point it drips off, and laid it on the form on top of one of the slats. I turn on the heating unit, which by the way is on a timer. I then place the top slat on top of the side and bring the waist caul down so it just starts to bend the side with pressure to hold it in place. Be sure your side is lined up square on top of the form. I then connect the springs on the side to the support bar that fits in a slot under the waist area of the form. This bar helps to support the side at the waist as it bends so it doesn't crack. I let this sit like this until the temperature gage reaches 300 degrees, then I slowly crank the waist down almost all the way, but not quite. At this point the side is steaming and crackling. I now attach the sliding caul for the lower bout on top of the form up by the waist and slowly, actually in small increments, move it down over the form to bend the lower bout. I don't go fast here. I pause every inch or so for a few seconds to let the heat penetrate the side as it makes contact with the metal surface of the form. Once over the outside curve of the lower bout, I go ahead and slide the caul the rest of the way down. Now I crank the waist caul down the rest of the way, then undo the springs that hold the waist bar up under the side as it is not needed anymore. Then I do the same to the upper bout. All this time the temperature stays in the 300 degree range. This all takes about 4 minutes to do. I let the unit sit with the heat on for another 10 minutes or so and then turn it off. I went back an hour later and heated it back up for another 20 minutes and turned it off. I will leave the side in the form until tomorrow evening when I will bend the other side.
This bender was pretty cheap to make, and it works great. I use to bend by hand on a pipe, and although I enjoyed that, this is great, and the sides will come out and fit in the mold almost perfect. I like that part.
Until tomorrow!

Kevin

[ScooberJake]

Thank you very much for that procedure on the bender. I have seen many plans for how to build one, but never a description of how to use it! Fairly obvious how to use it generally, but those specifics help. Thanks!

[Kevin in California]

Hey Scoober,
If you need the plans I can give you what I used. I modified them some. I think I spent under $75 for all the parts. I already had the wood.
If you have the plywood, you can build this thing pretty inexpensively. I bent the sides for my first 5 guitars on a pipe, which takes a little more time but gets you there. This is of course quicker, and ultimately more precise.
I'd recommend you build one and it was an enjoyable project too.

Kevin

[Kevin in California]

Bent the other side last night,
nothing to show, pics would be the same. :>)
But I have to tell you how GOOD it feels to be started on this build. I finished my last one
early in Oct. last year so its been a few months. It is as fun and exciting as it was on the
first one.
Hopefully I will make good progress this weekend and post more pics.

Kevin

[Jackspt28]

Thanks for the bending tutorial, I am just finishing my bender (from ultimate gutar plans) pretty inexpensive to make.Your project is coming alond well. Looking forward toseeing how the purfling inlays are done. Nice work , Thanks Jack.

[Jackspt28]

Are you slats aluminum or stainless steel? Thanks Jack.