Snding procedure before finishing

[Dave Bagwill]

So - what is your method and what are your materials for sanding the body before applying a finish?
Any tips/tricks you've learned along the way?
Maybe one or two of you could give a step-by-step of what you do.

Edit: Wow, did I set the internet on fire with this question? lol
Not a big deal.

[Herman]

This is roughly my way:

-filling all the gaps with wood dust and epoxy.
-scraping all flush
-sanding with P180 and P320
-All by hand
-pore filling with Z-poxy first and sand back to the bare wood.
-Oily wood seal with shellac sanding sealer
-pore filling a second time and lightly sand flat. (do not touch the wood)
-After that up to the finishing process

[Herman]

And for Dave: You cannot go viral with the term "Snding"

[Dave Bagwill]

And for Herman: Bite me.
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaah

Anyway thanks....

[banjopicks]

This is roughly my way:

-filling all the gaps with wood dust and epoxy.
-scraping all flush
-sanding with P180 and P320
-All by hand
-pore filling with Z-poxy first and sand back to the bare wood.
-Oily wood seal with shellac sanding sealer
-pore filling a second time and lightly sand flat. (do not touch the wood)
-After that up to the finishing process

You have gaps
"pore filling a second time and lightly sand flat. (do not touch the wood)" Why not sand back to the wood? I'm no expert, I just want to know your reasoning, I may learn something.
I'm just about to start finishing my first guitar and first instrument that will require pore filling so I'm looking for schooling.

[Herman]

Well, if you sand to the bare wood, but you leave any trace of ZPoxy, it will show in the finish.
If you go that way you have to sand quite deep and open up new pores.
Either way, or you sand deep, or you leave a tiny layer of Zpoxy. I do the latter and my finishes get compliments.
Several ways to skin the cat.
Herman

[peter havriluk]

At the risk of making an apples-to-oranges confusion....

I apply, and blocksand after each application, back to wood, two coats of z-poxy. After blocksanding the second application, I wipe on a thin layer of z-poxy, let it set, sand off the fuzz without (or restore if I broke through) removing the epoxy, and proceed with Minwax rattle-can lacquer. I want the wood fully sealed with z-poxy before I start applying the lacquer, which I blocksand between coats. When I run out of shiny spots after sanding, I apply my final coat of satin lacquer. No buffing, walk away. Works for me, but I try not to count the days involved.