Back bow neck after glueing fingerboard

[Herman]

With Titebond I glue my fingerboards on. After drying often a back bow of the neck remains. Due to the water part of the glue that swells the upper part of the neck.

I can adjust that with my neck rods, but it is not ideal.
Epoxy is an answer on the issue, but it does not squeeze out very easy.
Does one of you have another approach?

Herman

[John Parchem]

I moisten the fret side of fretboard when gluing. Titebond sets pretty quick; quick enough to set a moisture induced curve.

[Herman]

That is good tip John.
Dang, why didn't I think of this?
Thanks anyway. I'll try it next time.
Herman

[John Parchem]

That is good tip John.
Dang, why didn't I think of this?
Thanks anyway. I'll try it next time.
Herman

I guess in you case the opposite side of the neck. I moistened the top of the fretboard to keep it from cupping, fighting even the clamps on the edges. I glue on the fretboard before I carve the neck and have not gotten a back bow, or did and carved it out.

[peter havriluk]

I clamp my neck/fingerboard to my granite surface plate for a good long while (24+ hours) while the Titebond is drying. I'm guessing that OP hadn't clamped the whole thing down after mating the fingerboard and moisture did what moisture does.

I use the fingerboard caul Ken Cierpolowski described, a plank with some welding rod glued on to support the fingerboard at the outer edges and allow for the crown in the fingerboard.

[Herman]

Yes John, I think I understood your explanation. Thanks.
Peter, OP does clamp the thing down with the stiff 25" maple radius caul for 24 hours.
Anyway, no big deal. We all experiment till it works.
Herman

[peter havriluk]

So right about 'experiment till it works'. Everybody's shop tropes are unique, and we all make our own peace with ambiguity. I found relating to the original posting, that my results improved if I fretted after finishing the neck, and first thing I did after taking the neck out of the clamps was to level the fingerboard. Worked for me.