Spokeshave for overlap

[Dave Bagwill]

I've probably mentioned this before - I like using a spokeshave for removing the overlap from the top AND the back. With a really sharp blade and thin shavings, and you get a good job done in a reasonable time using your hands. For me it is a satisfying and quiet way to go about it.

[ken cierp]

I would imagine that its very important to use the same cutting pattern as the router climb cut procedure -- otherwise is there not the chance of the shave catching the end grain and tearing out a chunk of the back or top?

[Dave Bagwill]

Of course, I should have mentioned that. The photo was just for something to look at.

[Hans Mattes]

Thanks for the suggestion, Dave. I was just about to trim the top and back in my current build, so I tried the spokeshave. Fast, clean, and satisfying. But only to within 1/32" or so of the edge (and more near the waist and in the cutout) -- from there on I'll revert to Ken's flapper wheel technique.

[John Parchem]

I used Spiral Flush Trim Router Bits for the most of my guitars with no issues. Now that my binding machine does not require a depth bearing I set the bit to cut just past flush and not as deep as the binding. Having the slight recess makes it easier to sand the sides flat as you are not contending with the end grain of the top.

[Herman]

Smart thinking Dave. I use a router, but a romantic hand-builder uses your aproach.
Herman

[banjopicks]

I used Spiral Flush Trim Router Bits for the most of my guitars with no issues. Now that my binding machine does not require a depth bearing I set the bit to cut just past flush and not as deep as the binding. Having the slight recess makes it easier to sand the sides flat as you are not contending with the end grain of the top.

Great idea!