More neck angle to compensate future top raising

[Herman]

Most recipes for building assume the saddle stays on its spot in time.
After a few years all my guitars all have a slightly raised top. Lets say 1 to 2 millimeter in the middle.
Therefore now I compensate for that while building.
Standard setup says the top of the frets should allign with the top of the bridge.
Well, I aim a bit higher now.

Does anyone do that too? Or am I considered a fumbler now? Ha!
Herman

[ken cierp]

After a few years all my guitars all have a slightly raised top. Lets say 1 to 2 millimeter in the middle. Therefore now I compensate for that while building.

So are you saying your neck angle and intonation are off for a few years until the natural dome happens?

I am sorry I don't get it -- how can you compensate for something that is going to happen in the future and still have the proper set-up, neck angle and intonation real time?

[Herman]

Not that difficult. I have a saddle that is 4mm prone of the bridge when the guitar is ready.
After a few years I am not short of saddle to compensate for the raising. I've not expirienced that the intonation is problematic in this approach.

Otherwise it is the other way around. Start with a "proper" setup and end up with a too low saddle, demanding a neck reset. Or built tougher in the first place.

[ken cierp]

Herman in my view your geometry does not wash out, the action and intonation are correct when the saddle is tall or when you shorten it down the road when the top domes. These angles and measurements are inter-related to proper intonation -- this part of guitar making is science, nominal action and saddle height will result in nominal intonation. I also don't agree that guitars with initial proper set, action and intonation will need a neck reset in two or three years and actually I see the string tension doming and neck bowing in a matter of days. That is why I suggest waiting a week or so before trying to do a precision set-up

Now there are makers that actually provide winter and summer saddles --- this again is to help with maintaining proper intonation and action with changes in humidity. This strategy leans more toward play-ability than accuracy of sound.

You asked -- I am just trying to point out my reality.

[ken cierp]

Standard setup says the top of the frets should allign with the top of the bridge.

I have never heard that one as a set up concern, maybe initial neck set? I'd say set-up standard is based mostly on string distance from the frets at several critical locations, the trick being the open length at the optimal length nut to saddle for proper intonation as well as neck relief clearance to prevent buzz.

And lastly -- sorry I don't want to sound like I am ragging on you --- 4mm .156" saddle reveal as built is thought to be optimum by many makers. Between .135" and .165" is normal.

[Tim Benware]

Standard setup says the top of the frets should allign with the top of the bridge.

Herman, I am assuming when you're referring to "standard setup" you a mean when setting in the initial neck angle. If so, I do not want the top of the fret plane to align with the top of the bridge. Ideally, I want it to be 1/16" (1.6 mm) above the bridge. This gives me between .14" and .17" of saddle height. Which sounds close to what you are doing now.

Edit: Thanks Ken:)

[Herman]

Thanks guys, It seems my former "proper" neck angle/setup was low in the first place. I really thought in a initial setup the frets should line up with the top of the bridge.
And thanks Ken, for not ragging me, I know this item is of your favorite subjects. I have to admit this thread was intended to be a bit of provocative. But a healthy forum needs this time to time, agree?

Naturally next question: Do you think a good guitar develops some kind of top raising, or should it stay "flat".

Herman