New f-hole flattop
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Re: New f-hole flattop
They don't look that rough to me. And if you can fine tune a little with files they should be real nice (not that it looks like from the pic that you even need to).
I've "Ben-Had" again!
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
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Re: New f-hole flattop
I will definitely rig up some sort of tapered cylinder that I can adhere sandpaper to, to even up the holes and keep the horns sharp.
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Re: New f-hole flattop
I'm a little worried. I have roughed out the braces to a point where I'm getting the tap response I think is about right, but to get to that point I had to remove a lot of material from an already light bracing system.
At this point the top weights 195 grams. It is supported well enough to make a good sound, and the headblock area will be supported enough to withstand the pull of the neck, but those long thin braces down the center of the instrument have me worried about the bridge diving into the top.
Ignoring the fact that the braces are very rough, as you take a look at the pic, do any red flags go up? This is a new approach for me, uncharted waters...
At this point the top weights 195 grams. It is supported well enough to make a good sound, and the headblock area will be supported enough to withstand the pull of the neck, but those long thin braces down the center of the instrument have me worried about the bridge diving into the top.
Ignoring the fact that the braces are very rough, as you take a look at the pic, do any red flags go up? This is a new approach for me, uncharted waters...
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Re: New f-hole flattop
That is out of my knowledge range. If I had an x brace I would have kept it taller until the front of the bridge. How tall is it at the bridge patch? When the fret board ends is it still on the braces?
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Re: New f-hole flattop
Well in its favor:
-I left the cedar top a little thicker than a spruce top (.110") ;
-the bridge is long - 8", to overlap the a braces an inch on either side (bridge is around 32 grams);
-the A braces are tallish and thin most of their length and should be strong - the grain is perfect on them btw - though the pic makes them look kinda flat;
-the assembly is good and tight, and the glue joints are as they should be;
-the bridge plate is oversized by design.
-the f-hole backing material, though thin, does add support to the top wood.
All in all, I think it will work. As a prototype it is a good learning experience, and I hope to be pleasantly surprised.
-I left the cedar top a little thicker than a spruce top (.110") ;
-the bridge is long - 8", to overlap the a braces an inch on either side (bridge is around 32 grams);
-the A braces are tallish and thin most of their length and should be strong - the grain is perfect on them btw - though the pic makes them look kinda flat;
-the assembly is good and tight, and the glue joints are as they should be;
-the bridge plate is oversized by design.
-the f-hole backing material, though thin, does add support to the top wood.
All in all, I think it will work. As a prototype it is a good learning experience, and I hope to be pleasantly surprised.
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Re: New f-hole flattop
Good. Forging ahead then, this weekend I will clean up the braces, make the top look pretty and sign it. The bridge plate btw is .090" Brazilian cherry - the carbon fiber I ordered will not be here in time, so I'll use some of that on the next one - but I looked the cherry up on the Jahnke hardness scale and it is way up there and I have confidence in it being able to stand up to the ball ends of the strings.
I have some maple laminating to the inside of the rim at the spot I will be forming a soundport/access hole.
I have some maple laminating to the inside of the rim at the spot I will be forming a soundport/access hole.
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