Foggy Bottom

[Dave Bagwill]

There's a nice series of construction pix that Froggy Bottom has posted. One of the interesting things that caught my eye was the following statement, AFTER the top was glued on:

"Tomorrow morning the clamps will all be removed and we will be ready to secure ends of all top braces with kerfing chips"

The photo was not very instructive on this point, but I am guessing that they remove the kerfing where the braces will inlet, then glue on the top, then fill the kerfing void with another piece of kerfing.

A few guitars ago - the cutaway Ditson - I tried that method (not knowing if anyone did it that way) in order to skirt what was to me (and probably only to me ) an onerous task of trying to get the inlet slot just so perfect - realizing the width of the slot is not as important as the height (i.e., you want the kerfing making good contact with the inlet brace end) - I spent a lot of time getting that inlet slot just right. So I tried sawing and chiseling out the kerfing at the inlet point, gluing down the top, then cutting a piece of kerfing to fit snugly on top of the brace and gluing it in.

Well it just takes an extra couple of minutes, and I don't have any sloppy notches any more. As you know the kerfing material is liable to chipping etc., and this method gives me a more peaceful, easy feeling as I go about the task.


Tony - I know - kerfing chips - chips, yum. :-)

http://froggybottomguitars.com/guitars/the-sj-blog.html

[TonyinNYC]

Mmmmm....chipsss.....


Actually Dave, classical builders do it that way as well. Traditional linings really seem to love to chip out regardless of how careful you are when cutting the pocket for the brace end. Reverse kerfed linings are much more forgiving with regards to chip out. Probably due to their shape.
I have switched from using a pencil to mark the pocket locations to an exacto knife and I have gotten very nice pockets. But the method you are now using is also great.