Various setup specs from Brian Kimsey

[Dave Bagwill]

Some suggestions from Brian Kimsey. These are his opinions, of course, but he is a very experienced repair guy. http://www.bryankimsey.com/


The Rhythm Player:

you play mostly rhythm, probably use a thick pick (1.2 mm and up), and play hard and loud. You don't play much lead and when you do it's not likely to be an extended solo, but just a quick break, mostly in the first 5 frets. You don't want any buzzes. You probably play unamplified much of the time. In this case, I'm likely to give you a higher action all the way around with particular emphasis on the bass. I'd likely set your action to something like this:

E = .110, A = .105, D = .100, G = .100, B = .095, E = .090

This action would be hard for me to flatpick, but it will give you some good buzz protection. You can play the action as hard as you'll ever need to. If you make this action buzz, I'd suggest you have your right hand attack evaluated- you're probably plucking the string instead of brushing it, or pulling it away from the guitar instead of making it vibrate parallel to the face of the guitar.

The Bluegrass Player

Here's a guy who plays mostly rhythm, but also takes some leads, and maybe some pretty "hot" leads. The main difference between this and the "Fiddle Tune" player below, is that this guy plays with banjos and in a full bluegrass ensemble and needs a little more volume and power. They also use a capo on the 2nd and 4th frets fairly regularly, maybe more so that playing in open positions. I've measured an action very similar to this one on Tim Stafford's Lashbrooked Guild and Richard Bennett's custom guitar at IBMA 2000:

E = .105, A = .100, D = .095, G = .095, B = .090, E = .085

The Fiddle Tune Player:

You like to play lead on fiddle tunes, still play pretty hard, usually in an acoustic situation (no mics), you go up the neck sometimes, and have pretty good overall right hand control. You're willing to trade a little bit of buzz potential for increased playability. You probably play lead mostly on the treble strings, only occasionally drifting to the bass strings, and you play open about as much as you do with a capo. I keep one of my personal guitars setup like this.

E = .100, A = .095, D = .090, G = .090, B = .085, E = .080

The Lead Guitar Player:

You play lead on everything, go up the neck a lot, have excellent right hand control and finesse, and demand playability. When playing rhythm, you brush the strings, never dig in, and are very consious of dynamics. You're very willing to trade some buzz-potential for an extremely well-playing guitar. You're playing totally acoustic much of the time with some behind-the-mic work. Here's where I'd set you:

E = .096, A = .093, D = .090, G = .087, B = .084, E = .080

You'll notice that the treble strings in the "lead guitar" action are close to the "fiddle tune" action, but the bass is lower. Lead guitar players usually like the lower feel of the bass strings, but also tend to like a little higher action in the trebles so they can hit them a bit more. Thus the overall action doesn't drop, just part of it.

This next action is my most common setting, by far. If you're really confident in your right hand attack, want even better playability, and are less concerned about volume, we can get even a bit lower. I keep an action like this on one my personal guitars, and it gives a litte more of a "slinky" feel than the "lead guitar" action. It's a small difference, but it can feel a little better if you like to play leads on the lower strings. I measured an action very close to this on David Grier's Nashville Guitar Company guitar in 1999. This action will buzz if driven hard or if "dug into", but if you really want your guitar to play nice, here's where you want to be:

E = .093, A = .090, D = .087, G = .087, B = .084, E = .080

The last is probably the lowest action I'd ever go to. This is a very "buttery" action. It will buzz if you over play it, and you must keep your frets in tip-top condition. Changes in humidity will change your action and may cause buzzing. I've set this action only on guitars that I know are very stable and whose owners are willing to modify their right hand attack. A precise, controlled player can flat-out rip on this action, though. I measured an action even lower than this (about .005" all the way around) on Sean Watkin's Collings many years ago..

E = .090, A = .087, D = .084, G = .080, B = .075, E = .070

[ken cierp]

Seems like very good guidelines -- I will say that it is a rare exception when I do not set the action to the lowest possible -- as he calls it buttery. I even set the 6th a little lower to .085. If there is a tiny bit of buzzing I just add a hair more relief -- done.

[Woodyok]

Yes Brian's guidelines are good. I agree with Ken and I go as low as possible too. If I get a little string buzz, I add a little relief, play a little easier or make it part of my style.

[Tim Benware]

My setup specs:

E = .078, A = .078, D = .070, G = .070, B = .0625, E = .0625

[Dave Bagwill]

Tim, I can't believe it's not buttery!! :-)

[Tim Benware]

IT IS! Smooth and Sweet. The bluegrasser's like it a little higher.

[TonyinNYC]

I shoot for lower than .090" on the low E string, but the guitar I sold recently wanted it at .090". Well...the buyer did. The guitar is just a bunch of wood and can not talk.