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Port Orford Cedar
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:36 pm
by Robert Hosmer
Has anybody used POC?
I'm new to this, so I was wondering if anyone had ideas concerning suitable application. Maybe between Western red cedar and spruce?
I have a recovered billet of this drying out; just wanting ideas for down the road.
I LOVE the aroma!
Re: Port Orford Cedar
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:56 pm
by Dave Bagwill
Robert - I have not used it, but I have read many good things about it as a tonewood, and a number of luthiers have commented that it just does not crack. Period.
Halfway down this page is a description as a soundboard:
http://www.cookwoods.com/instrument-woo ... s_so=title
Interestingly, this site offers it not as a soundboard, but for backs and sides:
http://www.oregonwildwood.com/category/ ... ewood.html
Re: Port Orford Cedar
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:32 pm
by Robert Hosmer
Thanks, Dave!
I'm new to all this, and trying to digest everything at an alarming rate.
Don't think I'm gonna use it for back/sides, although reading indicates the most common use for that seems to be Flamencos?
(Tell ya how new I am, I don't even know what "Flamenco" means.)
Yes, it's very split-resistant. I used some to build a deck some years ago.
The billet should provide enough to do four soundboards; just gotta figure out which back/side material and instrument size would seem best with it. Plenty of options there.
Very well-quartered, with tight even grain. Also very clean with no defects.
No idea on "stiffness" till I cut it.
Speaking of which, how are people testing their pieces for stiffness?
Trying to flex a thin piece in the hands seems pretty subjective to me, but remember I'm new to it. But seems there may be a more definitive method. Any ideas on that?
Thanks,
Rob
Re: Port Orford Cedar
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:30 pm
by ken cierp
The whole idea of "optimum thickness" is subjective -- true you don't want a sound-board that is so flabby the string tension pulls it into a big old dome.
Here's what I do -- "nothing until the halves are joined" --- then start the thickness sanding/machining process, take it down to about .120 at this point start tapping it, hold on one corner and listen for a nice resonant tone -- you'll know the difference between that and a "thud" -- take the it down a little at a time and you notice more "sustain" -- test the stiffness by holding the lengthwise edge the weight of the material should not cause a bow of more then about 1" --- done.
So this is the general idea -- sometimes a top will loose resonance when the sound hole is cut. Sometimes after it braced it sound good again -- I always attach the back last so I can get at the braces to do a little shaving -- always listening for the sustain. This is not magic, or a "skill one is blessed with" I believe anyone can hear the nuances.