Acoustic Guitar Construction

Hey guys...

I finished up my guitar, and started to set it up tonight. I think it sounds great, I'm happy with how it turned out. But the only compensation I added was with the saddle angle. Is there a good rule for working out how much else to add for each string? I have a wide saddle, so I have plenty of room to add more. When I use my tuner, the B-string is actually the best intoned up the fretboard, and I added no extra B-string compensation yet!? The low E is the worse, which I guess shouldn't be surprising since it is the thickest.

Do I just cut a bit back and then retune, and test the intonation? A little at a time? I guess I could measure a compensated saddle for an initial guess...

Thanks!

Tj

Here's the system I use and recommend for getting a new guitar "in the ball-park"

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/saddle.html

I found that spending an excessive amount of time tweaking a brand new instrument for the most part is futile -- the entire instrument is going to settle-in, --- stretch, bend, bow bulge, catalyze as a result of nature and string tension. I really don't know when this all stops but it takes more then a few days. On the other hand its important (most would say) to start the play-in process -- so that's why I call it getting "in the ball -park." I do have a system for fine compensating each string -- article in process.

If the string is sharp you need to lengthen the distance (nut to saddle), if it's flat it needs to be shortened. You may want to start there to see where in the ball park you are. Also, there is a certain level the human ear can hear to, generally over 5 cents and the ear can tell the difference mine is not that good. So if on your electronic tuner you are within + or - 5 cents you're probably OK.

With a wide saddle I use a method that Don Teeter uses. Radius the top of the saddle but leave it flat on it's width, set your action. Then take a 2" peice of "b" string,put a 90 degree bend in it about 1/2" long on one end.Tune up the guitar and slip the short end of the peice string between the saddle and string. Do one string at a time. Test your string for intonation,12 fret open against 12 fret fretted. Move the bit of b string back or forward until you get the correct intonation. Then mark on the saddle on either side of the bit of b string with a very sharp pencil.Do this to each string,then remove saddle and ramp to the pencil marks. When you set up again intonation should be quite good. You can do this with a peice of ebony in place of your bone saddle if you prefer and then transfer to your permanent saddle.
Tom

Same way Doolin does it, I think, where I first saw the method.