Handheld Binding Router Rig
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:39 am
As if there weren't enough options already, I had to make my own. No one seems to sell a hand-held rig (maybe that should be a clue...), but I didn't want to invest in a tower rig for my first guitar. The handheld rig works well enough, but its a little scary due to the weight of the router. This design is a combination of the KMG table mounted approach and the Bogdanovich handheld. I have never seen a picture of the elusive KMG handheld rig. I also took the thoughts shared by Bill Cory in his book, but again, have not seen pictures of his rig.
In this approach, the 1/4" ($10) down spiral bit is fenced by the handle, which can move in or out to set the width of the cut. The router depth adjustment sets the depth of the cut. I used some scrap pine and less than $2 for the bolt and wingnut. Once I worked out the idea (took me 1 prototype), it probably took 1 hour to make. It is critical to ensure that the end of the fence furthest away from the bit makes contact with the side of the guitar. Letting the router tip in towards the top or back (whichever you are routing) will result in a divot in your groove. In fact, I think having the long PVC guide might actually make the potential for tipping-in worse. A shorter PVC guide at the bit end of the fence would make it more likely to tip-out instead of tip-in. It is a two-handed affair, with one on the handle and one on the router. That is why the router appears to be mounted backwards; it fit my hand better in that orientation. I also want to add a small block to the base and another to the handle/fence to serve as a "zero bar" like the Elevate. Those two blocks would touch when the bit is fully concealed, allowing you to open the blocks up to fit your binding, revealing the bit the same amount. That'll be phase 2.
However, as well as this worked, it was frightening and I fully understand why folks use the tower or Fleishman approach. I will do the same if I continue to build guitars, but that's a steep investment for guitar #1. Hope this might help others.
In this approach, the 1/4" ($10) down spiral bit is fenced by the handle, which can move in or out to set the width of the cut. The router depth adjustment sets the depth of the cut. I used some scrap pine and less than $2 for the bolt and wingnut. Once I worked out the idea (took me 1 prototype), it probably took 1 hour to make. It is critical to ensure that the end of the fence furthest away from the bit makes contact with the side of the guitar. Letting the router tip in towards the top or back (whichever you are routing) will result in a divot in your groove. In fact, I think having the long PVC guide might actually make the potential for tipping-in worse. A shorter PVC guide at the bit end of the fence would make it more likely to tip-out instead of tip-in. It is a two-handed affair, with one on the handle and one on the router. That is why the router appears to be mounted backwards; it fit my hand better in that orientation. I also want to add a small block to the base and another to the handle/fence to serve as a "zero bar" like the Elevate. Those two blocks would touch when the bit is fully concealed, allowing you to open the blocks up to fit your binding, revealing the bit the same amount. That'll be phase 2.
However, as well as this worked, it was frightening and I fully understand why folks use the tower or Fleishman approach. I will do the same if I continue to build guitars, but that's a steep investment for guitar #1. Hope this might help others.