I was watching a vid on the construction of a 'gypsy' guitar and noticed what I think is an idea I will try. The go-bar deck with a difference. The pictures say it all. You wouldn't need rods of varying length; the rods don't bend and make glue clean-up difficult.
Whaddya think muchachos?
A nice take on go-bars
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Dave Bagwill
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A nice take on go-bars
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peter havriluk
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peter havriluk
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Dave Bagwill
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Re: A nice take on go-bars
Ha! Observant fellow that I am, I had not even noticed the LED's, which might be the key to the whole thing. 
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Re: A nice take on go-bars
Well Dave, to me it looks technically superior, but visually uggelly.
With the traditional rods, you have a sense of the applied tension.
With this solution it looks like it won't give you the feel of pressure.
Ah well, just a thought of one who just made a traditional go-bar deck and don't want to hear he made the wrong one.
Herman
With the traditional rods, you have a sense of the applied tension.
With this solution it looks like it won't give you the feel of pressure.
Ah well, just a thought of one who just made a traditional go-bar deck and don't want to hear he made the wrong one.
Herman
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Dave Bagwill
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Re: A nice take on go-bars
H - I reckon there is no 'right' or 'wrong' here. Just a matter of style. With this guy's way of doing it, you would be able to feel how much pressure
the bar is exerting, which is a good thing, plus the pressure is straight down, which is good also. Too, the easier access to squeez-out would be a plus for me. So I think it may have its advantages.
OTOH a million guitars have been made using flexible rods, so that approach obviously works!
I'm going to try his method because I don't like rods slipping off, I don't like having to have rods of different lengths, and I don't like that once in a while a rod tilts a brace so that it doesn't make great contact. I've had to re-glue a few braces for that reason.
Hey, as long as it gets the job done, a guy is free to do what works, eh?
the bar is exerting, which is a good thing, plus the pressure is straight down, which is good also. Too, the easier access to squeez-out would be a plus for me. So I think it may have its advantages.
OTOH a million guitars have been made using flexible rods, so that approach obviously works!
I'm going to try his method because I don't like rods slipping off, I don't like having to have rods of different lengths, and I don't like that once in a while a rod tilts a brace so that it doesn't make great contact. I've had to re-glue a few braces for that reason.
Hey, as long as it gets the job done, a guy is free to do what works, eh?
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Hans Mattes
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Re: A nice take on go-bars
Sorry to be a "spoil-sport," but, to me this seems like a questionable idea -- for (at least) two reasons:
1) it's not clear how to assess (or to appropriately control) the pressure exerted by the "go bar." I use ⅛" fiberglass rods* on my go-bar deck. They are about 20" long. When they bend (deflect) ½" they exert 4.4 pounds of force; when they bend 1.5" they exert 4.9 pounds of force (no, the don't obey Hooke's law). That means that in use they always exert a similar force so can be used as experience dictates -- no skill of adjustment required.
2) As I use go-bars to clamp both braces glued to top and back and to glue the top and back to the sides, I space my go-bars about an inch apart. That looks problematic with the arrangement in the photo.
Just sayin'.
* I made my go bars using the rods sold by Harbor Freight for fishing electrical wire. I cut the HF bars in two (they come around 40" long) and then I cap the cut ends with plastic tip covers from Amazon. Cheap and effective. I installed a piece of perforated masonite (pegboard) in the top of my go bar deck to prevent the top of the go bar from slipping. It works well.
1) it's not clear how to assess (or to appropriately control) the pressure exerted by the "go bar." I use ⅛" fiberglass rods* on my go-bar deck. They are about 20" long. When they bend (deflect) ½" they exert 4.4 pounds of force; when they bend 1.5" they exert 4.9 pounds of force (no, the don't obey Hooke's law). That means that in use they always exert a similar force so can be used as experience dictates -- no skill of adjustment required.
2) As I use go-bars to clamp both braces glued to top and back and to glue the top and back to the sides, I space my go-bars about an inch apart. That looks problematic with the arrangement in the photo.
Just sayin'.
* I made my go bars using the rods sold by Harbor Freight for fishing electrical wire. I cut the HF bars in two (they come around 40" long) and then I cap the cut ends with plastic tip covers from Amazon. Cheap and effective. I installed a piece of perforated masonite (pegboard) in the top of my go bar deck to prevent the top of the go bar from slipping. It works well.