Random pix of a wenge/spruce model A

[Dave Bagwill]

A few pix I had hanging around from a project not yet done.
Ladder-braced top, using a few hints gathered hither and yon about slanting the braces a bit. We'll see. My shape, call it the Model A, I had to modify an existing mold.
Made some alder kerfing.

For the headblock shape where it meets the rims, I took 2 pieces of scrap veneer, glued them together, and then clamped them up against the mold. This gave me the right shape, so stuck some sandpaper to it and used it to shape the block. Easy peasy.

I very carefully left a 1/4", top and bottom, exposed portion of the rim to avoid having to cut channels for the binding. It turned out well; I'm making the binding now, and I have the 'channels' exactly the width of the sides, ready to go.

Got a neck part way done - cut out 3, 1" thick profiles, 2 of chechen and inner layer of Wenge. Did some shaping after gluing, it's still rough but I will keep at it.
Not great pix but thought I'd throw them up here anyhow. Got like 3 projects going.

[John Parchem]

Thanks for posting. I have just been doing odds and ends but I plan to start a new guitar soon. Maybe a flamenco. That project looks far along ready to finish?

[Dave Bagwill]

Getting close, but closer to finishing an all-hog larger version of the 'A', with Lowden type bracing.

[Dave Bagwill]

I should explain a couple of those pix above. (I've been living on Nyquil, Dayquil, aspirin, Vick's vapo-rub and chicken soup for a week now and making no progress, so I only post when I'm semi-aware of reality).

I made the neck by band-sawing 1" thick neck profiles from chechen and an inner piece of wenge, using a 1/4" mdf template I made from a stewmac plan.
I then attached the profiles one at a time to the template using CA/masking tape trick, then used the bearing on the spindle sander to guide the template and smooth out the profiles. Then glued them together and started cleaning them up. I also made some templates for the top profiles of the neck and headstockand traced them on the neck and bandsawed to shape.

Three pix showed the very simple headblock profiler - clamp two pieces of glued veneer against the mold, let dry, and you have an instant sanding block, with attached sandpaper, for the front of your headblock.

I did on a lark decide to leave 1/4" of the rim exposed, instead of routing the sides for binding channels. So I cut 1/2" off the top of the sides before laminating them together, and was careful to glue the sides to the blocks making allowances for that fact. Works fine and leaves good clean channels exactly the size of the non-existent side material.