Fingerboard gluing

[Herman]

The majority of fingerboards I glued were bound with titebond. On some of them a tiny backbow of the neck occured, due to the water content of the glue, I think. My latest few were glued with hide glue. Non of them developed a backbow.
BTW: I glue up to a thick straight radiused maple block.
My thought is that the hide glue has a high degree of bonding to the water, like glycerine does. And it does not suck into the wood like tidebond. It stays on the surface.
So my statement: Hideglue does a better job under the fingerboard than titebond.
Thoughts?
Herman

[ken cierp]

I am sure HHG works fine.

Proper/application use of Titebond along with a good clamping method has yielded greats result for me over the years -- so for me HHG would not be better. Keep in mind that with the exception of the over priced (vanity construction models) all the factories use PVA. For me mixing, storage, equipment etc. required for HHG is just an extra hassle. Maybe liquid hide would be as good?

[Herman]

Well, I am not decided about the liquid hide glue. There are critical reviews. So I did not cross that line, 'cause I am a ease with my HHG. But did anyone here use the liquid stuff?

[Dave Bagwill]

I've used it with good results, but not on the fingerboard, though I would have no qualms about using it. Right now I use fish glue, it works a treat.

[Herman]

Oh, I heard it works like a trout.

[Dave Bagwill]

Ah - 'trout' being the Dutch word for 'treat' - I get it. Plus it helps me play scales.

[dave d]

It works doubly well if you use fish glue on scalloped braces. You can't hoard all the puns Dave. Don't be so shellfish.