I am getting ready to work on the soundboard for build #2, but the first one by myself. This one is an L-00. Build #1 was working with a local luthier, Ken Bailey of Bailey Acoustic Shop in Black Mountain, NC. and was an OM.
I am planning on using the following workflow for the top, but I would like some input as to whether I should do it differently or if anyone has any other input as well. I looked through the forum for something like this but could not find anything. If this already exists then just point me in the right direction.
1. Join the wood (this is actually done)
2. Thickness the top
3. Cut out the top.
4. Install the rosette. Do I need the StewMac Dremel router base or can I use my trim router with a homemade jig?
5. Cut out the soundhole. Again, can I use the laminate router or a fly cutter? Better method?
6. Sand the top close to finish quality
7. Glue the bracing using a homemade Go Bar deck and a 28' radius disc.
8. Glue the top to the sides in the form.
Any and all help is appreciated!
Soundboard Workflow
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John Parchem
- Posts: 2746
- Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:33 pm
- Location: Seattle
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Re: Soundboard Workflow
My order is a little different.
I install the rosette before final thickening. The more wood I leave for the longest time makes recovery from error easier. For example a little too deep on the rosette channel, no problem. Also I think a trim router with a home made jig is fine. Test it.
I do thickness the top close to final before the braces as I like to remove most of the wood off the brace side. If the top has any viable figure, the book match of the top is better the less wood you remove from the outside, assuming that the outside was the matching saw side of the plates.
I cut out the sound hole with the same tool I use for the rosette channel. I do not actually cut it out. I create a channel with the depth the target thickness of the top. This way I do not loose the index hole on the top that I am using for the cut. Some times the waste will drop out when doing my final thickness, other times it is left with a very thin ring of wood holding it and I deal with it later.
I do not glue in the upper transverse brace in a radius dish. I flatten the center of the transverse brace and use a matching caul with cam clamps when gluing on the transverse brace. Otherwise there is too big of an arch under the fret board and it tends to goof up the angle under the fret board that you have in the rims.
I install the rosette before final thickening. The more wood I leave for the longest time makes recovery from error easier. For example a little too deep on the rosette channel, no problem. Also I think a trim router with a home made jig is fine. Test it.
I do thickness the top close to final before the braces as I like to remove most of the wood off the brace side. If the top has any viable figure, the book match of the top is better the less wood you remove from the outside, assuming that the outside was the matching saw side of the plates.
I cut out the sound hole with the same tool I use for the rosette channel. I do not actually cut it out. I create a channel with the depth the target thickness of the top. This way I do not loose the index hole on the top that I am using for the cut. Some times the waste will drop out when doing my final thickness, other times it is left with a very thin ring of wood holding it and I deal with it later.
I do not glue in the upper transverse brace in a radius dish. I flatten the center of the transverse brace and use a matching caul with cam clamps when gluing on the transverse brace. Otherwise there is too big of an arch under the fret board and it tends to goof up the angle under the fret board that you have in the rims.