Recommendations to keep Maple bindings clean
Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:19 am
Hello Everyone,
I am nearing the finishing stages of my second build of a KMG HD28 and am hoping you fine folks can guide me a bit as it pertains to keeping the maple bindings and tail wedge, as well as herringbone purflings light and bright during the pore filling and tru oil finishing stages.
I have perused a lot of forums including this one (which I value the most of all) but I'm just not coming up with a clear direction for my process.
My build has EIR sides and back with maple bindings both front and back, a herringbone back strip and herringbone purfling on the Spruce top. I learned the hard way during my first build that I need to be cautious with Rosewood dust during sanding and wipe downs because it can stain maple (and presumably purfling) deeply.
For that reason this build I did a wash coat on my Spruce top with Zinsser Seal Coat to protect it thus far while sanding the sides and etc.
At this point I have the following finishing plan:
Using the same Zinsser Seal Coat, apply 2-3 coats to the maple areas and to the purfling in order to seal them during the pore filling steps. Then, mask the top and neck-seating areas and proceed to pore fill using the Tru Oil slurry method.
My Tru Oil pore fill I intend to try a bit different approach this time - I will put on 5 coats of Tru Oil and THEN sand it back with 220 grit paper with Tru Oil as a lubricant to create a slurry and push that slurry into the pores. I will wipe off the excess sludge and oil with a paper towel going across the grain. Then I will do 5 more coats of Tru Oil and repeat the pore fill process again. Finally I will do 5 more coats and determine if 1 more pore fill is required.
Do you guys think the above process will protect the bindings and purfling adequately such that they will not be stained dramatically? I have also considered masking those maple areas but during my first build I did not care for the build-up of "stuff" that occurred near the masking tape. In fact, during the first build I ultimately removed the bridge mask and finished over that area and later sanded the finish off under the bridge to get good adhesion.
During my first build I fought long and hard with the Tru Oil pore fill process and learned a lot, but I understand that there is still much to be learned.
What do you folks think?
Thanks,
Rex
I am nearing the finishing stages of my second build of a KMG HD28 and am hoping you fine folks can guide me a bit as it pertains to keeping the maple bindings and tail wedge, as well as herringbone purflings light and bright during the pore filling and tru oil finishing stages.
I have perused a lot of forums including this one (which I value the most of all) but I'm just not coming up with a clear direction for my process.
My build has EIR sides and back with maple bindings both front and back, a herringbone back strip and herringbone purfling on the Spruce top. I learned the hard way during my first build that I need to be cautious with Rosewood dust during sanding and wipe downs because it can stain maple (and presumably purfling) deeply.
For that reason this build I did a wash coat on my Spruce top with Zinsser Seal Coat to protect it thus far while sanding the sides and etc.
At this point I have the following finishing plan:
Using the same Zinsser Seal Coat, apply 2-3 coats to the maple areas and to the purfling in order to seal them during the pore filling steps. Then, mask the top and neck-seating areas and proceed to pore fill using the Tru Oil slurry method.
My Tru Oil pore fill I intend to try a bit different approach this time - I will put on 5 coats of Tru Oil and THEN sand it back with 220 grit paper with Tru Oil as a lubricant to create a slurry and push that slurry into the pores. I will wipe off the excess sludge and oil with a paper towel going across the grain. Then I will do 5 more coats of Tru Oil and repeat the pore fill process again. Finally I will do 5 more coats and determine if 1 more pore fill is required.
Do you guys think the above process will protect the bindings and purfling adequately such that they will not be stained dramatically? I have also considered masking those maple areas but during my first build I did not care for the build-up of "stuff" that occurred near the masking tape. In fact, during the first build I ultimately removed the bridge mask and finished over that area and later sanded the finish off under the bridge to get good adhesion.
During my first build I fought long and hard with the Tru Oil pore fill process and learned a lot, but I understand that there is still much to be learned.
What do you folks think?
Thanks,
Rex