A hybrid method to obtain higher gloss.
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 10:36 pm
For my third guitar, http://www.acousticguitarconstructionfo ... =24&t=2371 I desired a glossier TruOil finish than my first two guitars. More sheen was the aim but not so much that I would berate myself for each inevitable scratch from everyday playing of the guitar. This was my initial untried process, so I’m certain some steps were unnecessary, I just don’t know yet which ones.
For the prep sanding of the body, I sanded up to 320 grit, always using a rigid 8” sanding block or PVC pipe. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/833902 ... Block.aspx
While sanding the more pliable top I tried to keep the ends of the sanding block over the braces and the outside edge to avoid introducing any depressions or ripples.
Then sealed with Zinnser Sealcoat.
Pore sealed B/S with Pore-O-Pac until most pores were filled, to leave a little character of the wood.
Began TO applications using method as in Dave Bagwell’s video http://www.acousticguitarconstructionfo ... ?f=28&t=88
Wanting to build up the thickness of finish, I used only very light pressure with the paper towel covered foam, to remove excess TO. After 2-3 hrs, I lightly scuffed surface with gray synthetic pad and repeated. After 10-12 coats it began to look thick enough to level.
From here on out sanding was wet-sanding with soapy water stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Finishing/How-To/Online_Resources/Finishing/Wet-sand_before_buffing
I then leveled lightly, being nervous about sanding though the finish, using 600 grit paper on block. Then 1200, 2000 grit. Concerned about final thickness I decided even more TO would result in better protection and also give me a chance to improve on my first attempt at leveling. Repeating with 8 more coats I was ready to level and sand out again.
I then waited 6-7 days for finish to harden.
Using Micro-Mesh Soft Touch pads 3600-12000 brought sheen out nicely.
Buffing was the final step. I read where others had used Mequiar’s #7 Mirror Glaze or 3M Finesse-It II auto polish to polish guitars. I found the 3M at a local NAPA store. The final sheen emerged using a drill, an inexpensive cotton buff pad from HF, some elbow grease and the automobile polish.
Final thoughts: This hybrid process worked out well for me because:
- I don’t have the luxury of spray equipment or an area set up for spraying guitars.
- I can literally just set the body aside while waiting for each coat to dry and work on the neck.
Edit: However, in hindsight, I don't think I would repeat this whole process. I will either try another regular TO application and then finally finish with the higher grit micro-mesh and polish -or- try a brush-on varnish and research established sand and polish schedules.
_________________
You look at where you're going and where you are and it never makes sense, but then you look back at where you've been and a pattern seems to emerge. Robert M. Pirsig
For the prep sanding of the body, I sanded up to 320 grit, always using a rigid 8” sanding block or PVC pipe. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/833902 ... Block.aspx
While sanding the more pliable top I tried to keep the ends of the sanding block over the braces and the outside edge to avoid introducing any depressions or ripples.
Then sealed with Zinnser Sealcoat.
Pore sealed B/S with Pore-O-Pac until most pores were filled, to leave a little character of the wood.
Began TO applications using method as in Dave Bagwell’s video http://www.acousticguitarconstructionfo ... ?f=28&t=88
Wanting to build up the thickness of finish, I used only very light pressure with the paper towel covered foam, to remove excess TO. After 2-3 hrs, I lightly scuffed surface with gray synthetic pad and repeated. After 10-12 coats it began to look thick enough to level.
From here on out sanding was wet-sanding with soapy water stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Finishing/How-To/Online_Resources/Finishing/Wet-sand_before_buffing
I then leveled lightly, being nervous about sanding though the finish, using 600 grit paper on block. Then 1200, 2000 grit. Concerned about final thickness I decided even more TO would result in better protection and also give me a chance to improve on my first attempt at leveling. Repeating with 8 more coats I was ready to level and sand out again.
I then waited 6-7 days for finish to harden.
Using Micro-Mesh Soft Touch pads 3600-12000 brought sheen out nicely.
Buffing was the final step. I read where others had used Mequiar’s #7 Mirror Glaze or 3M Finesse-It II auto polish to polish guitars. I found the 3M at a local NAPA store. The final sheen emerged using a drill, an inexpensive cotton buff pad from HF, some elbow grease and the automobile polish.
Final thoughts: This hybrid process worked out well for me because:
- I don’t have the luxury of spray equipment or an area set up for spraying guitars.
- I can literally just set the body aside while waiting for each coat to dry and work on the neck.
Edit: However, in hindsight, I don't think I would repeat this whole process. I will either try another regular TO application and then finally finish with the higher grit micro-mesh and polish -or- try a brush-on varnish and research established sand and polish schedules.
_________________
You look at where you're going and where you are and it never makes sense, but then you look back at where you've been and a pattern seems to emerge. Robert M. Pirsig