Tooling for cutting the m/t?

[Dave Bagwill]

What do you guys use to cut your mortises and your tenons? I'm looking for a method using a router, most likely. Links to plans or pix would be appreciated.

[Herman]

The dovetails I make are routed with the Stewmac templates and routerbit.
Works just fine for me. I used to make teh dovetails by hand. But routing gives a cleaner result. Making the jig was a precise thing. All directions must be perpendicular. I had one just a bit off, and it showed directly in the dovetail.
But making any jig needs time, the right materials and patience.
Herman

[Kevin in California]

I'm using the Simpson jig, got it used from Parchem when he upgraded. It works just fine. I think you can still buy them from him. Does M & T and dovetails, body and neck.

[Dave Bagwill]

Sounds good - I just checked Simpson's website and they are available.
Unless a better suggestion comes along - and I don't mean the one where I grab a dull saw and eyeball the tenon, then grab a dull chisel and eyeball the mortise - as appealing as that sounds! - I'll probably order the Simpson.

[dave d]

Has anyone here used both the Simpson device and the LMI mortise and tenon templates and can provide any pros/cons to either? Both look like they would do the job fine, but one additional step with the LMI solution is that you have to build the jig that holds the neck or body. I think the Simpson method assumes that you have a vise to clamp your neck and body in. As Herman mentioned similarly for the Stewmac version, the jig needs to be very precisely built, but once that's done they both appear to be up to the task.

[John Parchem]

Has anyone here used both the Simpson device and the LMI mortise and tenon templates and can provide any pros/cons to either? Both look like they would do the job fine, but one additional step with the LMI solution is that you have to build the jig that holds the neck or body. I think the Simpson method assumes that you have a vise to clamp your neck and body in. As Herman mentioned similarly for the Stewmac version, the jig needs to be very precisely built, but once that's done they both appear to be up to the task.

I used the Simpson device. I think the only pro\con between the LMI and Simpson jig is the Simpson jig comes already made.

[Kevin in California]

One note Dave the Simpson jig is sized to use a straight bit that matches the router guide insert size or a flush trim type bit. I wanted to use my plunge router and take small bites, not full depth cuts so I adjusted the width of the template for the tenon down and use a 1/2" bit in a 5/8" router guide. Too scary taking a 3/4" or so depth cut all at once on a guitar body for sure. How do I know?????????? Don't ask, don't tell.