end blocks/neck blocks

[peter havriluk]

I have a piece of 3/4" birch plywood, part of a bundle of plywood I bought from Woodcraft. Come to use it and whaddaya know, it ain't flat. Ain't much warped, but not flat. So...I inferred from reading comments from builders that it's possible to use this thickness of plywood for end blocks. So--- any reason I could not chop out appropriately-sized rectangles of this ply for end blocks? Is there a down side to my using the birch ply?

I'm also considering a flush mounted neck for my first scratchbuilt project, no dovetail, no mortise and tenon. Is this 3/4" ply appropriate for neck blocks when the block won't be relieved for a dovetail or a mortise and tenon?

Again, and as always, thanks very much.

[Bob Matthews]

I think it would be perfect for end blocks once profiled to any rim curvature.

For me personally, I don't go any thicker than 1/2" (more like 3/8") for the tail block as I never use end pins and think that 3/4" is overkill and over weight.

For the neck block and for a bolt on without mortise and tenon, the thickness is ideal.
Having said that, my neck blocks incorporate right angled extension under the fretboard and also on the back, so i would have to think carefully about joining end grain plywood to face grain plywood - maybe glue up a test piece first and then try and break the joint. Or if one is feeling particularly crafty, do a box or dovetail joint.

Bob

[ken cierp]

As long as the plywood is solid core (no knot gaps in the layers) you could use it. Thin the tail block to 5/8" -- use a double layer for the neck block. That's pretty much standard sizes. For the tail block you can put a bevel on both ends that matches the width of the ribbon kerfing (many manufacturers/makers are doing that now, some even on the back side of the neck block) -- that way you don't have to worry about sanding a contour on that blocks.

[peter havriluk]

Thanks, Bob and Ken. No use spending money on stuff that won't improve matters.