Florentine Cutaway
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:21 am
The building procedures I follow are quite common. Pictures of that you can find in books like Kinkead and Cumpiano. Therefore I did not make a log before. But now I'm about to make a M-Jumbo with a Florentine-style cutaway. Of this procedure there are only few pics around. So Kevin pushed me recently to make a small blog of making this cutaway. Scared of the severe consequences Kevin would put on me, here it is:
First I drew the layout of the guitar on the inside of the top. I decided to go for the Taylorstyle, with the cutawaypoint at the 17th fret. and with the inside of the cutaway ending just under the fingerboard at the 12th fret.
Take in account that the sides are 2 mm thick (5/64").
The neckblock was made as usual on the bass side.
The neckblock on the treble side should get the same curve as the sides. Since the end of the cutaway must end under the fingerboard, you should decide what width the fingerboard gets at the 14th fret (here 58 mm, 2 1/4"")
Please don't mind the stains on the top, it's just a bit of sealer to prevent denting.
The curve projected on the neckblock:
Not a good pic, but I took the bulk of on the end of my beltsander. Hey, am a pro or not?
Next, the art of finding an object that has the same curve as the envisioned cutaway. Deep in the dungeon I found n old paintcan that does the trick.
Sticking some sandpaper to the can and off we sand. Again: Professional attempt.
Now and then checking how straight and perpendicular all is.
Checking on the layout:
Endresult, not that bad at all.
First I drew the layout of the guitar on the inside of the top. I decided to go for the Taylorstyle, with the cutawaypoint at the 17th fret. and with the inside of the cutaway ending just under the fingerboard at the 12th fret.
Take in account that the sides are 2 mm thick (5/64").
The neckblock was made as usual on the bass side.
The neckblock on the treble side should get the same curve as the sides. Since the end of the cutaway must end under the fingerboard, you should decide what width the fingerboard gets at the 14th fret (here 58 mm, 2 1/4"")
Please don't mind the stains on the top, it's just a bit of sealer to prevent denting.
The curve projected on the neckblock:
Not a good pic, but I took the bulk of on the end of my beltsander. Hey, am a pro or not?
Next, the art of finding an object that has the same curve as the envisioned cutaway. Deep in the dungeon I found n old paintcan that does the trick.
Sticking some sandpaper to the can and off we sand. Again: Professional attempt.
Now and then checking how straight and perpendicular all is.
Checking on the layout:
Endresult, not that bad at all.