Acoustic Guitar Construction

A few times I had a backbow in a rough neck, because the glue (Titebond and LMI white glue) did swell the fingerboardside of the neck. I corrected it with sanding it flat, correct it with a two-way rod or even taking the fingerboard off.
I discussed it with my local luthier, and he told me he puts the fingerboards on with epoxy with better (flatter) results.

On my latest I recently took the fingerboard off and reglued with epoxy: Flat now.

Opinions?

Herman

I believe the main problem is that --way too much glue is used for the job. I see pixs of clamping set-ups with the Titebond dripping all over the place. Too much glue = too much water. A thin film is all that is needed. A full length caul and many clamps are essential. http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ne ... embly.html
That said I see no reason for not using epoxy.

I'd say the best reason for not using epoxy is future removal if necessary.

I've found that gorilla glue works good for fingerboards. I only dampen the fingerboard a little to help the process. I use hide glue for the part you glue to the top. I have used heat to remove both from the body and neck.

I just had an experience with LMI instrument glue on an ebony fret board where I used a thin layer of glue on the same day I planed off 2 mm from the back of the fret board and it really warped across its width. Enough so that I saw a slight gap while trying to clamp the fret board. I had a full sized 3/4 inch caul. I removed the board, cleaned the glue and flattened it with heat, the caul and some clamps and re-glued with epoxy.

It is a classical with a Spanish heel so the only reason I would removed the fret board would be to replace it. Epoxy will release with heat.

Epoxy for me every time.

Ben-Had wrote:I'd say the best reason for not using epoxy is future removal if necessary.

Epoxy removes just as easily as other types of glue, anything above 100 degrees C and the epoxy looses all bonding properties.

Bob