Acoustic Guitar Construction

My first guitar build will be a Walnut 00-12,

Here are the specs I'm starting with:

Walnut Back & Sides
Maple bindings with herringbone purfling
Figured Maple Tail Wedge
Sitka Spruce top
3 ring herringbone rosette
Spruce bracing - scalloped
Rounded reverse kerfing
Rosewood bridge plate
Ebony Pyramid bridge with drop in saddle
KMG "True" Bolt on M/T Mahogany
Martin style aluminum truss rod
Rosewood heel cap
Rosewood headstock veneer
Ebony fingerboard

Over the last couple days I've been building the cam clamps, and the Mega Mold. I decided to finish the cam clamps and Mega Mold with a light coat of boiled linseed. Unnecessary, but I figure these are tools that will get a lot of use in the coming years - might as well finish them nicely.

Assembling the cam clamps:

Getting some help with the initial assembly of the mold.




Marking center line on Mega Mold

Fitting the sides to mark for trimming.

I'm wondering if I should reset the Mega Mold before I get any further, to move the guitar body up - better aligning the waist cauls with the apex of the waist?

I reading the KMG Instructions I did not see any specific mention of this alignment other than working to locate one of the outside spools at the narrow point of the waist.

Any thoughts?

( This is just a test fitting of the side, I will insert paper around the perimeter to ensure easy removal of the side as outlined in the instructions)

I reading the KMG Instructions I did not see any specific mention of this alignment other than working to locate one of the outside spools at the narrow point of the waist.

Correct

The only exception would be if you cannot position the spindle shaft centered length-wise, which should not be the case.

Thanks Ken, doubled checked that I could position the spindle shaft centered length-wise, and all looked good.

Marked the narrowest point of the waist on each side of the body for accuracy of alignment as I fit the sides, and install blocks and kerfing.

As recommended I placed a few layers of paper between the mold and body to ensure easy release/replacement in the mold.

Took careful measurements with a caliper to mark and align the neck and tail blocks with the center line on the mold. Initially I was trying to use this aluminum square, buts its size wasn't ideal. Picked up a 6" or 7" Craftsman combination square that works much better, and will be more functional long term.