Acoustic Guitar Construction

I've been experimenting with super soft 2 and bindings.

I started with bindings cut to .100", .090", .080" with no joy - all went well except at the waist, of course.
When I used bindings at around .060", it worked well - and according to Joe Woodworker, after the ss2 has dried, gluing is not a problem.
The straighter the grain, and the clearer the grain, the better the results. The pic is some pretty gnarly white oak thinned to .060 - bent without any problem.

So -- are you shaping the material and letting it dry? No heat? I am going to try soaking Bloodwood bindings with SS over night, but plan to form them on the bending machine -- thanks for the tip!

Brush the ss2 on the straight piece of binding, put it aside until it looks dry and does not smell like the product, then bend it into shape. No heat, the way I've used it. It will spring back a bit. There are some direction on the veneersupplies.com site and on the bottle.

Also, from Joe Gorelski (Woodworker):
Hi Dave,

If the softener has dried completely, it will not affect bond strength.

Cheers,
Joe

If only I could get SuperSoft 2 in the UK :(

Anyone got a recipe?


Bob

Hey Bob - I have read a few different recipes! But they have been tried and found wanting, alas.

here's another brand


http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208407 ... -pint.aspx

Litmus wrote:If only I could get SuperSoft 2 in the UK :(

Anyone got a recipe?


Bob

You don't need SuperSoft. Any veneer softener will work. There was a thread on the OLF about it recently. I also sent a PM to a guy in Scotland who may or may not have some extra SS2 laying around. I will let you know what he says.