Re: Yet another math question
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:54 pm
FWIW, here is something from the Fishman site:
_____________________________________________________
5 - 8 DEGREES: What about these few degrees? Well, we
think you should tilt the saddle back by this amount when-
ever you cut a saddle slot. Here's why:
a.
The backwards tilting saddle will be much better at resist-
ing the tendency of the center strings to bow to the saddle for-
ward and create a long "D" shaped saddle slot and its accom-
panying space between the back of the saddle and the back of
the slot.
b.
The pickup will "see" more downbearing force and will
sound better.
c.
As a result of better force distribution between the saddle
and bridge, the bridge will remain more stable, resist distortion
and bending, and sound more solid. (Remember Objective II?)
Even though it's more trouble and it ain't historic, etc., we're
convinced that it does really improve the pickup installation
and often, the acoustic response. Further, it's not so much
angle that it looks objectionable.
As a bonus, this technique often helps us move the string
take off point a little further back on the bridge, when needed
to help correct "folding-up-sharp" intonation.
a - ROUTING A SLOT
You will need a small plunge router to do the job. Make a
base for the router with a 5-8° angle to achieve an angled slot.
Make a routing jig to fit on top of the guitar. Cover the bottom
of the jig with a cork or rubber gasket. The jig bottom should
clamp to the guitar's edges only, and not tend to squeeze out
the belly shape in the top, thus accommodate the aforemen-
tioned screw jack. The guide for the router base must fit pre-
cisely to avoid slop in the cut. Make adjustable endstops for to
_____________________________________________________
5 - 8 DEGREES: What about these few degrees? Well, we
think you should tilt the saddle back by this amount when-
ever you cut a saddle slot. Here's why:
a.
The backwards tilting saddle will be much better at resist-
ing the tendency of the center strings to bow to the saddle for-
ward and create a long "D" shaped saddle slot and its accom-
panying space between the back of the saddle and the back of
the slot.
b.
The pickup will "see" more downbearing force and will
sound better.
c.
As a result of better force distribution between the saddle
and bridge, the bridge will remain more stable, resist distortion
and bending, and sound more solid. (Remember Objective II?)
Even though it's more trouble and it ain't historic, etc., we're
convinced that it does really improve the pickup installation
and often, the acoustic response. Further, it's not so much
angle that it looks objectionable.
As a bonus, this technique often helps us move the string
take off point a little further back on the bridge, when needed
to help correct "folding-up-sharp" intonation.
a - ROUTING A SLOT
You will need a small plunge router to do the job. Make a
base for the router with a 5-8° angle to achieve an angled slot.
Make a routing jig to fit on top of the guitar. Cover the bottom
of the jig with a cork or rubber gasket. The jig bottom should
clamp to the guitar's edges only, and not tend to squeeze out
the belly shape in the top, thus accommodate the aforemen-
tioned screw jack. The guide for the router base must fit pre-
cisely to avoid slop in the cut. Make adjustable endstops for to