Florentine Cutaway
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Kevin in California
- Posts: 2807
- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:19 pm
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Herman I want to see how you carve this neck
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Eric, Thanks for liking this. Good luck on your cutawayguitar.
Kevin, I can tell you now: I'll do it with my hands. I tried my feet, but that is too hard to do.
Kevin, I can tell you now: I'll do it with my hands. I tried my feet, but that is too hard to do.
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Not sure what changed but none of your images are visible??
ken cierp
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
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http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
http://www.cncguitarproducts.com/
KMG Guitar Kit Information
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ki ... ckage.html
Re: Florentine Cutaway
server is off........and on
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Now the neck and headstock are still flush on the side, I can rout the channel for the trussrod easily. Clamping on the head and heel makes the routerguide run free.
After that the "ears" were glued to the headstock, because the neckwood is not wide enough for my headstockdesign. Saves mahogany. Again.
Have to flatten it all yet.
After that the "ears" were glued to the headstock, because the neckwood is not wide enough for my headstockdesign. Saves mahogany. Again.
Have to flatten it all yet.
Re: Florentine Cutaway
The endgraft. Anyone knows what it should be called in Dutch? 'cause I don't know.
After making the layout, I saw with a small japanese saw just through the sides. Not too deep into the top or back! Errors in that field have to be covered by the bindings, you know. Too deep means an uggely repair. Ask me how I know that!
I rout the excess out with my dremel and leave the edges for the chisel. Sharp and clean edges make an inlay stand out.
After that I sand the endgraft to the right taper, so it fits in snug. Plus two veneers of about the right size.
Glueing in is easy. As we say "A child can do the laundry".
After making the layout, I saw with a small japanese saw just through the sides. Not too deep into the top or back! Errors in that field have to be covered by the bindings, you know. Too deep means an uggely repair. Ask me how I know that!
I rout the excess out with my dremel and leave the edges for the chisel. Sharp and clean edges make an inlay stand out.
After that I sand the endgraft to the right taper, so it fits in snug. Plus two veneers of about the right size.
Glueing in is easy. As we say "A child can do the laundry".
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Back to where this is about: the binding of the cutaway.
First the routing . Not different from other builds, but be careful on the outer points, because the router has only little area to sit on. One slip to the side and your channel is not staight anymore. But here I was skilled (read: "lucky") and the result looks nice to me.
The same for the neckarea.
I started inside the cutaway, because I think ending there, can cause a difficult matching of the bindings. The binding and purfling were glued in oversized.
Then the excess was cut off with a saw, up to about 0.05 from the edge. From there I took it off with a scalpel. Go slow and you can work very precise.
Well that was ok for me. Looks like this:
Then the purfing was glued togethe and tapered. In a way, it joins the other side as perfect as possible. I decided to glue the purfling and binding consecutive. This for the best fitting of both. First I glued the first inch of the purfling with a drop of CA-glue+accelerator in place:
After that the binding and the rest of the perimeter was glued with titebond.
A bit of cleaning up and at the moment it looks like this. Won't touch it before finishing, 'cause it has to end up clean and sharp as possible. The other side of the cutaway is treated the same way. The result there is not as crisp as I showed here, but that area wil be covered by the fretboard, so eventually that will be invisable.
First the routing . Not different from other builds, but be careful on the outer points, because the router has only little area to sit on. One slip to the side and your channel is not staight anymore. But here I was skilled (read: "lucky") and the result looks nice to me.
The same for the neckarea.
I started inside the cutaway, because I think ending there, can cause a difficult matching of the bindings. The binding and purfling were glued in oversized.
Then the excess was cut off with a saw, up to about 0.05 from the edge. From there I took it off with a scalpel. Go slow and you can work very precise.
Well that was ok for me. Looks like this:
Then the purfing was glued togethe and tapered. In a way, it joins the other side as perfect as possible. I decided to glue the purfling and binding consecutive. This for the best fitting of both. First I glued the first inch of the purfling with a drop of CA-glue+accelerator in place:
After that the binding and the rest of the perimeter was glued with titebond.
A bit of cleaning up and at the moment it looks like this. Won't touch it before finishing, 'cause it has to end up clean and sharp as possible. The other side of the cutaway is treated the same way. The result there is not as crisp as I showed here, but that area wil be covered by the fretboard, so eventually that will be invisable.