Safest way to remove a bridge (titebond I'm pretty sure)

[Ken Hundley]

My biggest concern when using heat on the bridge has always been about the center seam of the top. If you are using enough heat to melt the glue under the bridge, there is a good chance you could cause the seam to distort, possibly even softening the glue of the center of the x and bridge plate. I have lifted 4 bridges with heat every time, and was always worried about it. So far, been lucky, and haven't learned another way to do it.

[Dave Bagwill]

N K forster, a luthier whose work I admire, advises a sharp block plane (got one!) and a sharp chisel (got one!). I've done that procedure one time and it worked very well but took a good 1/2 hour or so, maybe a little longer. I'm leaning that direction again since time is not a big issue.

[Kevin in California]

I haven't removed a bridge yet, but I think my approach will be when the time comes to use a very thin putty knife, heat the putty knife and insert it under the bridge giving a little tap, working it in, reheating, repeat, etc. I think Hundley has done something like this, haven't you Ken? This way no heat to affect the top seam, or bracing underneath.

Kevin

[Tim Benware]

I've tried the tap method, the heated knife tap method, heated bridge cold knife and heated bridge with heated knife. I use the latter method now and the bridge comes off much cleaner, faster and with fewer wood fibers clinging to the bottom that way. Have had no problems with that method.

[Dave Bagwill]

Never tried the plane/chisel method?

[Tim Benware]

No, for two reasons - 1. most of the bridges were reused and 2. it's a whole lot more work and effort to get to the same place.

[Dave Bagwill]

For someone like me who does not do it very often, might it be a safer way to get to the same place? I mean, the risk of tear out or splinters is essentially zero.