Page 2 of 3
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2026 9:55 am
by Jeremydawg
I’ve been sanding the radius on the bottom of the bridges
But I’m an amateur at this
(Working on guitar #3)
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2026 2:24 am
by Herman
Hey Jeremy,
Although some consider this an unnecessary effort, as long your bridge fits the top nicely, you're doing fine.
Herman
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2026 10:20 am
by peter havriluk
Herman wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2026 2:24 am
Hey Jeremy,
Although some consider this an unnecessary effort, as long your bridge fits the top nicely, you're doing fine.
Herman
I dunno how a flat bridge can fit a domed top 'nicely', and I'm back to not copying a skip-any-step-you-can factory process when there's more careful ways to do the job. No factories in this discussion.
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2026 10:34 am
by Herman
We're on the same page
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 10:48 am
by Jeremydawg
Hey guys
I’m just wondering what glus you use.
I’ve used tight bond original on my first build
And on my last build I used stem Mac fish glue(they recommend that for the Torrified Sitka top) both were successful (so far)I feel like time is the ultimate judge of some of these things
Jeremy
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 10:49 am
by Jeremydawg
Typo I meant glues
Jeremy
Re: Flat or curved bridge bottom?
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 3:37 pm
by John Parchem
Both are good glues. Leave the fish glue clamped overnight. The titebond can be clamed for a shorter time but still needs a day to fully cure. Fish glue is both messy and easy to clean up with a damp rag. Torrified wood is slow to absorb moisture, titebond can dry before it bonds. Fish glue has more time. I used titebond with a torrified top but wiped it with a damp rag first. I had no issues.