Glue and torrefied wood

[John Parchem]

Pinless bridges are not more likely to come off than pinned bridges. The pins do nothing to keep the bridge from peeling up on the trailing edge. Bridges do not pull of do to shear force of the string tension. Rather they come off from the torque of the strings over the saddle. The saddle is acting like a lever trying to peel the bridge off.

Double the clamping time. I would wait a whole day.

[Herman]

Follow John's advise!

[Dave Bagwill]

Yep. I'd already planned on the 24 hours - it's been 17 hours so far.
We will see what we will see - strings will go on in the next couple of days.
Thanks guys.

[Kevin in California]

Dave, if home
How about epoxy. Not so easy to remove but hey you want it to stick. Try it on scrap first. 30 or 60 minute stuff I'd recommend

[Dave Bagwill]

Kevin - it's too late to try it on this instrument, I glued it up with the FG yesterday.

And - I'm going to steer clear of the torrefied wood in the future, I think. This WRC top does ring like a bell, but the wood is splintery and brittle, and the gluing is a PITA.

[Dave Bagwill]

So the bridge appears to be well and truly glued down. String tension will tell the story in a few days.

The glue did leave the topwood a bit discolored around the bridge footprint and it is not easy to remove that discoloration. It's like a light shadow that follows the bridge outline about 1/4" all around. Sanding does not seem to remove it, so I'm looking for other solutions. Perhaps I'll try some very light scraping. But this is not a big thing as the finish process will blend things together.

[Herman]

This why I am not fond of this torrified wood:
A German Spruce top discolored after glueing a rosette with epoxy:
(I used the other side and it became a great guitar with 2 rosettes, But no one knows.)
The other side glued with Titebond was ok.