Acoustic Guitar Construction

Oooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I see. Yeah, I missed that didn't I. Good think I can make up for it with the bore bristle brush.

Yeah, man!

Been doing a little thinking about the wedge. I came up with this but there may be flaws and if so I hope you point them out. Basically it is just using UN-profiled rims, glued to blocks; cutting out a piece of mdf or whatever you have, that fits inside the rims (you'll have to cut out for the headblock and tailblock) to represent the back; making sure the top of the rims is DOWN; then pinning the mdf to the blocks at the desired heights for the guitar's regular build; marking the inside of the bass side of the rim at the desired reduced height; swiveling the mdf to that height and then tracing the new profile all around the inside of the rim.
Once that is done the rims can be profiled and then traced onto the back, which will be a little bit wider because of the wedge angle.
But first things first - does my idea so far make sense?
Thanks.

I think I got it, but personally I'd disregard the measurement at the blocks ---- for comfort sake I would be concerned about the deepest point opposite the shallow point on the wedge. BTW there are antique classical guitars that taper wide at the neck to thinner at the tail block.

My graphics suck. The 3" measurement looks like it was on the block when in actuality I meant for it to be at the armpit area.
The original marks on the blocks kept the original body depth and taper, and the back just rotated around that axis.

The Manzer wedge is cool and worth trying, I never tried one. In your original post you mentioned doing it because the player wants to play sitting down. Almost all classical guitarist play sitting down without a Manzer wedge.

I do not use a work board for my SS guitars, I would carefully profile the sides and blocks for the wedge and use the radius dishes I always use. The scary thing for me would be routing the binding channels on the top where it is at a pretty good angle from the rims that the router references. Maybe it would work I just might not be able to see it.

Thanks John. This guitar is a lot larger than a classical, and is pretty unwieldy for a sitting player. The wedge should make it quite a bit more comfortable.

It is the back that is tilted of course, the top stays as it always does. When I say 'workboard' I should have said 'back substitute' - it is only there to establish the body depth at the armpit and give the correct profile for the sides.