Acoustic Guitar Construction

I use Tru-oil, apply...while still wet sand into a wood slury with 320, gently wipe off excess with a lint free cloth...(Micro fiber) pores filled. Mostly in one pass. I use a magnifying glass to see pores well to be sure they are filled) Always same color as the wood your working on...you may apply lacquer over Tru-oil, or dewaxed shellac or any other finish you would chose...I just use Tru-oil. Apply with a folded coffee filter, which automatically levels product for first 3 coats then spray a 2 to 1 mixture of mineral spirits and Tru-oil, max of 3 passes at a time...often you can get 4-5 coats per day with the spray mixture...weather permitting, low humidity, warm...very low odor and most aren't allergic to the product.
let dry over night and begin again...I usually go for 15-20 spray coats (I use a prevail sprayer don't have a spray gun any more) after the first 3 by hand (No leveling between spray coats) allow to cure out for a week...then sand beginning with 1000 then to 1500 then to 2000. You can go all the way to 12000 with micro-mesh but there is really no need...if you follow up with a buffing compound I use 3M and then a good swirl remover...you can read a newspaper in the result.
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Ray - what kind of lube do you use when wet-sanding?

one drop of Dawn dish washing liquid in about 8 oz of water Dave...I use purified water or distilled...I got into some bad water with a lot of chlorine and salt/minerals in it once and had to strip 3 necks and do them over because of it...a lesson learned the hard way!
I usually...hummm won't say "Steal" let's say "High-grade" or borrow some of Mom's water she has for her iron...unless she catches me in the act...then I have to get my own...dang...can't get away with anything any more!
I have used mineral oil...but don't like the mess...I do plug the tuner holes or any place where there isn't finish that would soak up any water...but I don't use a LOT of water at a time...I usually plug the holes with a little bit of parifin wax...it works great and removes easily...I gently warm it so I can use it (Mold it) in place and cut off access...I also have a hot glue gun that uses sticks that are just the right size to slide in the holes to seal them...I have just worked around them carefully...I've never had a problem with it.

Hi Ray, I like the idea of using the tru-oil and sanding to make a slurry...I suppose it gives an instant perfect colored filler but do you ever have any problems with it staining purfling or bindings. Say for instance, if you've got a rosewood back and sides with white maple binding, would you end up with pink-stained binding?

Matt Fisher wrote:Hi Ray, I like the idea of using the tru-oil and sanding to make a slurry...I suppose it gives an instant perfect colored filler but do you ever have any problems with it staining purfling or bindings. Say for instance, if you've got a rosewood back and sides with white maple binding, would you end up with pink-stained binding?

Yes Matt, I use "Pin striping tape" matching the size binding or wider to mask off the binding...works well...can be had at most automotive parts stores :>)

I like my pores to pop as this part of the grain of the wood I want to show. My one problem with a sanding slurry pore fill is the pore is the same color as the surrounding wood sort of hiding them. I would rather go with a much darker fill or clear as it visually reads dark.

Good to see everyone is a bit struggling on the porefilling. Above I wrote this time it was the laquerbased filler's turn. But what a waste of time. It does not fill. Even with some pumice in the mixture.
Now I'm back to the Z-poxy and stay with it for a while. It's messy to work with, but it fills properly and is unvisable under laquer.

Herman