Acoustic Guitar Construction

I found a link to a type of deflection tester, still no plans, just pics
http://community.berea.edu/guitarresear ... Tests.html

Sorry no plans

I didn't mean if you had any Ken, just wondering if you or anyone had seen any. I don't there are any out there.

In theory lighter is better (cleats add weight) less energy is needed to move the soundboard therefore it will be more sensitive.

I assumed that because the cleats were so light that the benefit of reinforcing the seam would outweigh the possibility of an adverse reaction to tone. Do you recommend reducing their size somewhat or removing them entirely?

Heck no I would not remove them -- just making a point. But it is added weight that unfortunately will do little to prevent seam seperation (the glue is stronger than the wood itself, much stated by chemical producers and is proven to be true) so if RH drops to a point where the sound board bellies down a grain crack will happen somewhere anyhow.

To lighten the top many makers have gone to the pratice of shaving the braces to a tall triangular configuration -- seems like a good idea since, do to the beam effect the brace is still strong and now lighter.

Somogyi shows a deflection tester and process in his book, but it is for an unbraced plate.

Once plates are braced, he places the braced top into a mold that clamps them tight as if they were glued to the sides and finishes the work based on the sounds he gets after exciting the top with his finger.

Somogyi's seems like a good idea if one uses the same box outline over and over. In theory, a top that just never sounds or (insert whatever criterion suits you here) quite right can be discarded before gluing it to sides. Otherwise, Ken has pretty much offered the best answer to the question: whether to glue the top or the back to the sides first.

"Light 'n tight" will take anyone a long way.

That's exactly how I like my women too.