Acoustic Guitar Construction

deadedith wrote:Hey, I like that chalk idea. Don't know where to get chalk, though..

Here's one source:

I use the Veritas Low-Angle Jack Plane one of the three listed for jointing on a shooting board and love it. Although on really figured wood the default blade angle is too small and will tear out the edge. They have high angle blades though.

In fact, we use an old -- well set up 6" Craftsman (Delta) jointer. Two slow passes and the mating surfaces are like glass and perfect. I would never again consider this a hand operation -- I know I can do it by hand (done it), but why? Especially if the planes cost about $300 each! -- $.02

I have a jointer but my technique sucks. I always get a small portion of the trailing edge deeper that the rest of the cut. Just can't seem to get it flat the entire length so I went back to sanding them.

Jointer snipe is caused by having the knives/blades set too high to the out-feed table -- we use strong magnets to hold the knives during set-up and tightening.

Getting off topic I may move this

kencierp wrote:Jointer snipe is caused by having the knives/blades set too high to the out-feed table -- we use strong magnets to hold the knives during set-up and tightening.

Getting off topic I may move this

Thanks, problem solved, out feed table too low.

I use to use a shooting board and a Number 7 Lie-Nielsen Joiner plane. Now I use a joiner for a couple of passes and then finish up with a couple more passes with a shooting board made from 3/4" Melamine with a 1-1/4" piece of maple glued to the edge with 80 grit sticky sandpaper. Works great. I also wear some gloves with rubber on one side to get good purchase of the top and back plates.