Acoustic Guitar Construction

Works for me. FWIW

The suggestion of "the larger the bit, the slower the speed" is to keep the velocity of the cutting edge, where it impacts the wood, within a reasonable range. And the diameter of bits used with trim routers can vary pretty widely -- say ¼" diameter to 2" diameter. With bits no more than ½" in diameter, I generally use the maximum router speed. While too fast a speed can cause burning, that's only likely with dull bits, where the actually cutting edge migrates to a few thousandths in from the circumference. Too slow a speed will mean that the bit takes fewer bites per second, and unless the feed rate is similarly slowed, that means bigger bites -- which can contribute to chipping. Just sayin'.

My blade is dull. I'm looking for a short instructional vid that shows the correct way to sharpen it.
Thanks Hans.

Try this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFe0gugVzzo. And here's an article about using a dremel to do it. https://woodgears.ca/router_lift/sharpen.html.

I'll check those out, thanks.

I may have it professionally done this time, because I'm pretty sure that my fumbling and bumbling have got the poor thing way outta whack.

R.M. Mottolo shows a method of bending all 4 bindings at once, in his manual.
I'll be laminating 2 x .040" strips so I need 8 of them.
Still, it is doable in one pass.
I saw the idea for the overnight drying form somewhere on the net.

Leaving overnight, touch-up in the am if needed.

Sometimes a few bucks for another (new!) router bit is the cheapest solution. Mailorder, wait a few days, takes fifteen minutes.