Thanks John,
I started the head stock design to day ultimately making a mock up to test my layout. The book suggests a tuner layout that allows a straight run across the nut to the tuner post. Not having the break at the nut, while intonation by the nut will be the same, will have the feel of a longer string in terms of bends and the feel fretting them.
To properly layout the tuners I first needed to determine the string spacing at the nut, then I could layout the tuners so that they fit on the peg board and are positioned for the straight run.
I like to have my spaces relatively even as opposed to the string centers. In the past I have used the thickness of the strings to figure out the placement. The book had a simpler method that looks nearly as good. (I used it on my last guitar as well)
I first mark out E strings 3mm in on the bass side, 4mm in on the treble side I measure the distance in between. For this guitar is was 36.75 mm.
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The strings are spaced .1mm farther apart as it moves from treble to bass. I mark the spaces A, B ,C, D, E, where A is between sting 1 & 2 and E is between 5& 6. So:
A = ((distance between strings 1 and 6) - 1 mm) / 5 | (36.75 mm - 1) / 5 = 7.15mm
B = A + .1mm = 7.25mm
C= A + .2mm = 7.35mm
D = A + .3mm = 7.45mm
E = A + .4mm = 7.55mm
Instead of measuring and laying out the spaces I calculated all the string positions starting with high E string as 0. This avoids accumulated layout errors.
High E = 0. B=7.15, G = 14.35, D = 21.74, A = 29.2, E = 36.75 mm
To design the shape. I started with my 1 3/4 nut width and use some of the base measurements for the curve to the nut from Trevor Gore's design. I drew in the string spacing and extended the lines up into the head stock. For each string I placed the center of the post hole 3 mm from the string lines away from the center . ( I made the mistake on my bass putting the posts on the string line.)
I used Tervor's plan in the book to space the tuners from the nut. With the tuner posts marked I made a dot up and out to mark where I wanted the knob shaft to hit the body.
I drew in a rough placement for my logo and then used a french curve to hit my body intersection marks on each side and I went high enough to have room for the logo.
I copied my drawing and made a plastic template. Just to make sure the layout works I made a ply wood mark up.
In the past I have been using paint cans and what not to transfer a curve to the bottom of the fret board. It finally dawned on me just to just use a compass. I have the center line so it is a lot easier.
More neck work this weekend.
continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
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Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
Well this has been a LOT of work so far. But I can't wait to see and hear the final product.
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Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
Nice! I used to really dislike the headstocks with the top narrower than the nut end, but that shape is growing on me and " function is the new fashion". I know it's better to have straight string paths.
You sure are staying true to the Gore build, John. Keep the pictures and notes coming!
You sure are staying true to the Gore build, John. Keep the pictures and notes coming!
Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
I totally get the concept (direct path etc.) of the Gore headstock design, but personally, a little extreme for my eye.
ken cierp
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Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
It does take some getting use to. I used this shape on my acoustic bass. It was fairly well accepted. On the bass I put the posts on the string centers, and did not allow for the width of the post.ken cierp wrote:I totally get the concept (direct path etc.) of the Gore headstock design, but personally, a little extreme for my eye.
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Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
Really looking good John!. I will someday too build an acoustic bass luv it!.
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Re: continuing build thread for Gore Medium body SS
I like the headstock, it is a matter of taste I suppose.
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