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A new Dred guitar build started
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Re: A new Dred guitar build started
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Re: A new Dred guitar build started
Worked this time first time
It's sporadic
It's sporadic
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Re: A new Dred guitar build started
I got the top braces all carved....dang forgot to take a pic.
Scalloped X braces and lower bout braces.
I got the back and top glued to the rims yesterday and today. I have a nicely ringing box now.
Installed abalone dots on the fingerboard and put a 16ft radius on it with a sanding block.
Scalloped X braces and lower bout braces.
I got the back and top glued to the rims yesterday and today. I have a nicely ringing box now.
Installed abalone dots on the fingerboard and put a 16ft radius on it with a sanding block.
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Re: A new Dred guitar build started
All trimmed flush today with the palm router. Now I need to level the sides. I have some areas with low spots....from the bending. I use a scraper and a flat long hardwood block covered with 80 grit paper to do this
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Re: A new Dred guitar build started
More progress.
I did route the binding channels and installed maple bindings with purflings top and back that match the rosette, end wedge and back strip.
I had glued up some curly maple bindings with SIDE purflings, but they cracked in the bending process. I used no moisture (because I'd used Titebond when I made the purflings), and I did nit wrap them in foil.
So I bent plain maple, no side purflings, spritzed with water and wrapped in foil and tgey came out perfect.
Anyway I taped them all in and wicked in the CA, a way I like doing it. I seemed to forget to take some pics of this.
After scraping all the bindings flush and sanding to 220 grit, I masked off the bindings and did some pore filling on the rosewood using Timbermate ebony. One application and the pores are near filled. I'll do one more.
Then I inlayed my headstock MOP logo, cutting the pocket on the CNC machine, and filling in around it with epoxy mixed with ebony sawdust. It turned out nice.
Then I made up a plate for the back of the headstock using the last piece of Macuaba rosewood left over from a guitar I made with it back in 2011. I glued in a piece of my purfling down the center. Should look nice with a .020" piece of Indian rosewood veneer under it.
I also hand cut a channel in the neck blank for a Stewmac double action truss rod. Guys....these rods are great and the are inexpensive. Check them out and give them a try
I did route the binding channels and installed maple bindings with purflings top and back that match the rosette, end wedge and back strip.
I had glued up some curly maple bindings with SIDE purflings, but they cracked in the bending process. I used no moisture (because I'd used Titebond when I made the purflings), and I did nit wrap them in foil.
So I bent plain maple, no side purflings, spritzed with water and wrapped in foil and tgey came out perfect.
Anyway I taped them all in and wicked in the CA, a way I like doing it. I seemed to forget to take some pics of this.
After scraping all the bindings flush and sanding to 220 grit, I masked off the bindings and did some pore filling on the rosewood using Timbermate ebony. One application and the pores are near filled. I'll do one more.
Then I inlayed my headstock MOP logo, cutting the pocket on the CNC machine, and filling in around it with epoxy mixed with ebony sawdust. It turned out nice.
Then I made up a plate for the back of the headstock using the last piece of Macuaba rosewood left over from a guitar I made with it back in 2011. I glued in a piece of my purfling down the center. Should look nice with a .020" piece of Indian rosewood veneer under it.
I also hand cut a channel in the neck blank for a Stewmac double action truss rod. Guys....these rods are great and the are inexpensive. Check them out and give them a try
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