Acoustic Guitar Construction

Hi Ben, hard to say.....I think what I did was treat it like the System 3....they said add enough to get the consistency of whipped cream or soft butter. With the TO, I think I did slightly less than that, and did two applications.

I know that adding silica or micro beads to any of the clear fillers will affect the clarity -- here's an option to Epoxy -- http://www.hoodfinishing.com/2011-Catal ... illers.pdf its the Hood fast drying nitro based that I have used and like. Contact Hood and check for compatibility -- Just a thought.

kencierp wrote:I know that adding silica or micro beads to any of the clear fillers will affect the clarity -- here's an option to Epoxy -- http://www.hoodfinishing.com/2011-Catal ... illers.pdf its the Hood fast drying nitro based that I have used and like. Contact Hood and check for compatibility -- Just a thought.

Generally the rule of thumb is you can apply lacquer over Tru-oil, but Tru-oil will not work over a lacquer finish/product.
The answer to that dilemma is to spray a thin coat of shellac over the lacquer product then lightly sand with 1000 and go to Tru-oil. At least that's what I've found to be true successful.

Contact Birchwood Casey as well, they have a pretty good handle on compatibility too. :)

RayRay wrote:

kencierp wrote:I know that adding silica or micro beads to any of the clear fillers will affect the clarity -- here's an option to Epoxy -- http://www.hoodfinishing.com/2011-Catal ... illers.pdf its the Hood fast drying nitro based that I have used and like. Contact Hood and check for compatibility -- Just a thought.

Generally the rule of thumb is you can apply lacquer over Tru-oil, but Tru-oil will not work over a lacquer finish/product.
The answer to that dilemma is to spray a thin coat of shellac over the lacquer product then lightly sand with 1000 and go to Tru-oil. At least that's what I've found to be true successful.

Contact Birchwood Casey as well, they have a pretty good handle on compatibility too. :)

Ahh, Just saw this post and it may have answered my question, My dilemma is that I started off finishing my top with a coat of brush on shellac sanding filler from Rustins. I then moved on to rubbing in 3 coats of French polish shellac--again the Rustins brand-- and so far so good apart from a few little streaks that I intend to sand out.

But, having read so much here on Tru Oil I am now convinced that its the way I would like to go and so I need to know this for sure--Can I sand down the french polish applied so far and continue with a Tru Oil finish ??

The acoustic guitar is my very first build and I am quite nervous about messing up now. Its Ovankol back and sides, Bear claw spruce top, paduak bridge and peghead, and a mahogony neck
As you can see the bear claw is showing up more as each coat goes on--not sure if I like it yet but its growing on me.

I'm new here so hopefully I can load a couple of pics to show where I'm at right now.
Great to have a forum such as this to turn to when I'm in trouble !!
Thanks to all
Rusty

Hi Rusty - from all I've read, TO should go over shellac with no issues. If you used olive oil or something in your FP, you would want to make sure that is all removed.

The TO should make your first instrument look really nice. :-)

deadedith wrote:Hi Rusty - from all I've read, TO should go over shellac with no issues. If you used olive oil or something in your FP, you would want to make sure that is all removed.

The TO should make your first instrument look really nice. :-)

Thanks --finally figured how to post the pics



How should i ensure that olive oil is removed --I did use a few drops on the mouse pad as i rubbed it the polish due to it being de waxed

Cheers
Rusty

Really nice Rusty!
I don't know fp that well - maybe someone else will weigh in - I think the procedure is 'spiriting off' or something like that.

Anyone else got info on removing any oil from the fp procedure?