Rusty's PL 29 Antes Parlor

[ken cierp]

Seems you need to add some take off points so you can better visulize the curvature (geometry) -- no, its not going to all of a sudden be striaght lines that dive up or down between three of your take off points. You are in control of the quality of the templete layout, the math and geometry ---- is what it is.

[rusty999]

I'm actually getting on ok with the parlor build now despite a few hiccups at the start but I have now closed the box, fitted the binding front and back, and now contemplating the neck. I had to wait for a truss rod as they had sent me out a full size rod instead of the smaller 15". I have that now so should be back on track soon . I will post a pic on the site shortly and you guys can have a look and tell me what you think. I finally located a place in the UK that sells both epoxy and behlin products--I cant ship from USA anymore due to restrictions-- so I was thinking about pore filling the back and sides with epoxy? Theres a few small gaps between the cocobolo binding and rosewood sides that I need to fill first. I did fill a couple of gaps with dust and superglue to see how that works and even though it looks ok I was wondering if theres an alternative way of filling gaps that would blend in better with the rosewood. Thanks Rusty

[ken cierp]

The most important step when using a gap filler of any kind is to completely seal the wood "first" other wise the filler becomes a pore fill and worse if there is color in it. An unsealed area will then take on the top coats differently and will appear blotchy and unprofessional.

Gap filling of the light top wood is futile -- it will show as a dark spot under finish.

The next rule is to use a filler that can be marbled -- in other words mix two or three different colors of pigment swirled, rather than one solid color. Sometimes sanding dust assortment works, there's filler putty sticks, melt in sticks, and pre-mixed stuff in a can -- all will work fine. Experiment first for your situation, gap filling is about tricking the eye.

And before you do anything study the gap -- if it is caused by a binding coming loose during installation many times that can be heated and pulled tight into the channel.

[rusty999]

I pore filled the back with epoxy and it worked out well so just waiting for it to dry. Heres a couple of pics of the body this far.

I noticed something about the fretboard as I was pondering on what to do next and I saw that its not going to meet the neck at the 12th fret--well not exactly anyway..


I hope you dont mind me posting the message I received way back when I was ordering the kit {with the kit wizard they use} and this is what it said:

Comments on your Order:
Thank you for your order. After reviewing the kit there are a couple of issues. The neck you ordered is for a dread. We only carry 1 neck that works for a parlour and it is a slot head like a classical. It's a 24.9 scale, 12 frets to the body. You also ordered a 24.9 preslotted fingerboard but also a slotting service for a 24.5. The issue here is our plans call for a 24.5 but the materials are all for a 24.9 scale. We can slot a 24.5 scale board but it won't work for our precarved neck. If you wish to follow the plans exactly you will have to order the 24.5 board and carve the neck yourself. Please let me know how to proceed.
____________________________________________________________


Ok, so I replied that I would go with the easier option of having them carve the neck with 24.9 scale and to include a slotted fretboard to match and anything for an easy life as I just want to get more experience building guitars , and anyway I didnt have much tools back then--got a few more now thankfully. But anyway,to get back to what I see as a potential problem-- when I checked the fretboard against the neck and body I find that the 12th fret is away from the body by about 1/4 inch -maybe more.

Is this going to create a problem or have they sent the wrong fretboard.

Thanks again for all your advice this far on the forum here,
Rusty

[Kevin in California]

Looking really good there.

Kevin

[ken cierp]

Where are you placing the fingerboard in relation to the nut? Is the nut on the head-stock or fingerboard plane? Yes if the parts don't match you have a mess.

[rusty999]

Sorry pics are not so good but I will try to explain. I assume that the first slot represents the nut ? I ran a pencil line across where I am-once again- assuming the nut should be, right at the break angle on the headstock. When I then line up the "first" slot--which is in fact the nut--with that line, I find I am about 1/4 inch out at the 12th as you can hopefully see in the pic.