A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition

[Kevin in California]

Thanks Dave and Tim,
I came up with the bridge on my first guitar I made that wasn't a kit and I've stuck with it. However on this one I rounded the bottom point a little bit.
I think I like it more. By the way, the point is centered between the two center pin holes, but in the picture it looks to be off.

The sealer looks really good and I'm all set to start spraying lacquer in the morning. I will attempt to get 4 coats on by 10am, then three more on Sunday morning. After that I'll level and see how it looks and assess how much more I want to put on.

Kevin

[Kevin in California]

Sprayed 3 coats of lacquer this morning, about 14oz, nice wet coats, and it is looking real nice. After the second coat I could see some small voids around the abalone rosette (I didn't back fill this abalone with superglue like I did the purflings which seals it all really nicely). I thought I'd have to do some drop filling, but after the third coat, they are all just about filled so I'll keep spraying at this point, I think I'll be alright.
Hope to get three more coats in the morning before church.

Kevin

[Kevin in California]

Got up late, so only got two coats sprayed this morning.
This afternoon I did a little sanding to check level, and it looks really good. I didn't try to sand away the orange peel at this time.
Five coats so far so I'll spray a few more this week and see how it looks. I've put on about 20oz of lacquer so far.
I'm going to try and get up early enough to spray two coats tomorrow morning.

Kevin

[ken cierp]

I am guessing you already know this -- but for the others, that orange peel is cause by too high air pressure, too little coating flow and perhaps also holding the gun too close to the work. The volocity of the fresh material boucing against the wet surface is causing the divots.

[Kevin in California]

Thanks Ken, I kind of, sort of know this. I'm using a HVLP system so I have no control over the amount of air, but I do have control over the volume of product. I am still trying to dial that in. I am probably too close, and I might not be putting on a heavy enough coat, but one spraying is using 5oz, and there is very little over spray, so I think the coats are pretty heavy. I just read this weekend someone who finishes off with a spray of just thinner, and this flows out the surface almost totally smooth, the claim that there is almost no sanding to level needed.
What do you think of this technique?

Kevin

[ken cierp]

Yes --- blending the coat with thinner is a very good idea -- however, again the double edged sword -- you need a slow evaporating thinner, some of the premium thinners are that to begin, blush removers and retarders are actually just slow dry formulas. If the thinner evaporates too fast you introduce the possibility of blush. And interstingly that gets removed with a spray of slow drying thinner.

[Kevin in California]

Okay so I have Behlens retarder, so that would be the thinner to use?

Kevin