Safest way to remove a bridge (titebond I'm pretty sure)

[Tim Benware]

Don't be afraid - YOU CAN DO EET!

[Dave Bagwill]

No fear Tim, just the utter, placid, settled animosity toward extra work (should a chip come off the top or whatever). Plus, first time or two who knows - I may get the bridge off with heat, call it a success, but because of inexperience loosen the glue on the xbraces, to show up only later in crash with a bridge abutment. Just sayin' - I may have to just go with what I know.


Plus I live my life by WWOD?
What Would Oprah do???

[John Parchem]

I have removed a bridge with heat and a cold scraper, some tape around the bridge set bit back a bit and the bridge came off no problem. Unfortunately I did not notice what the handle was doing. So I did have a bit of clean up where I scratched the top finish with the plastic handle of the scraper.

[Tim Benware]

I have removed a bridge with heat and a cold scraper, some tape around the bridge set bit back a bit and the bridge came off no problem. Unfortunately I did not notice what the handle was doing. So I did have a bit of clean up where I scratched the top finish with the plastic handle of the scraper.

Yes, that can be an issue which is why now all my knifes have an offset handle that holds them up above the top surface.

[Tom West]

I have found a heat lamp with the right insulation on finished areas works. The heating is very even over the total area of concern. Have used it for both bridges and fingerboards. When doing bridges one can route the main mass of the bridge off and thus the heat needs to be on for a much shorter time thus with the possibility of less intrusion into the center seam. I would suggest that the sharp blow method only be tried on bridges glued with HHG.
Tom

[Dave Bagwill]

That use of the router is a good tip. Thanks.

[Tim Benware]

I took this one off with no heat. I was lifting pretty good.