Acoustic Guitar Construction

Necessity is truly the "mother of invention" -- I too had those pucker moments, as a "Best Practice" IE by trade I was taught to copy the best processes, tools, fixtures -- and the fact is you'll never find one of the towers or the dinosaur gizmos is a high volume, high quality shop – frankly both those items over look some basic geometric facts, – in other words they are “over” thought out and do not take into consideration what the expensive bearing guided bit itself brings to the party – I'll let it go at that.

Thanks for kudos – I really enjoy using this machine myself.

Looks good.
What Blade is Dave talking about--does he mean the router bit ? Does it come with a proper size bit as well ?

Yes he meant bit -- no, it does not come with the bit. Any "sharp" 1/4" straight bit will work. The carbide #st002 from BAM Carbide is the one I recommend.

This video too gave me confidence to invest in the KMG binding machine. And 3 guitars later it has not failed me.
And I don't expect it will as I embark on yet another KMG kit.
Invariably when I dry fit and get what I think is a perfect fit, it seems that the binding swells when glued in and dry.
Thus no longer a perfect fit.

Is this swelling of the binding something I need to account for? Or do I need to use a different glue for it.
I use Titebond Original.

Appreciate any input.
Thanks.

That's a very good point -- first as for glue I have even recommend the TiteBond extended (dry time) version for the binding process, I like the little added time for adjustments. The other end of the spectrum is the CA method -- but that's a different subject.

As for the channels -- a little deep is a good thing, you always want to be shaving the sides to the binding. Shaving the binding to the sides can result in irregular trim thickness, this usually does not look too bad -- but uniform should be the goal.