Maybe, I am always forcing may linings into place but I switched to big clips. I have the small plastic ones. I have not tried the paper clips They are strong.
A new OM starting
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Re: A new OM starting
John that's quite an assortment of clips. I use a couple really strong Pony type clips for stubborn spots.
I forgot to take a pic but I glued the back to the rims in the gobar deck today. I notched the sides for the braces and I like to get the back in place using the tape to hold it on the center line, then I flip the mold over and hlue in little blocks on either side of the neck and end blocks so when I glue the back on it self aligns and I don't have to worry about it shifting off center.
I also glued up the redwood top plates in the clamping jig
I forgot to take a pic but I glued the back to the rims in the gobar deck today. I notched the sides for the braces and I like to get the back in place using the tape to hold it on the center line, then I flip the mold over and hlue in little blocks on either side of the neck and end blocks so when I glue the back on it self aligns and I don't have to worry about it shifting off center.
I also glued up the redwood top plates in the clamping jig
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Re: A new OM starting
I decided on my rosette scheme.
I'm using bwbw plastic purfling that I have left over from my archtop project with abalone.
I first routed two channels for the purfling .070" deep that are .160" apart. The purfling is .080 nominally and I had a bit that size for the dremel. The routing jig I made up years ago that utilizes the StewMac dremel base. This jig has always served me well. Using special cement from LMI for bonding plastic to wood I glued in the purflings. Then scraped them flush. Now I routed out the area between the purflings to .060" deep.
My abalone rosette is .050 to .055" so they went in snuggly to a depth that allows me to flood over the top with CA until it's flush with the purflings.
It's all in and I'll scrape and sand it all flush tomorrow.
I'll be using the same purfling on the top and back with flamed maple bindings and plan to have bw side puflings too.
I'm using bwbw plastic purfling that I have left over from my archtop project with abalone.
I first routed two channels for the purfling .070" deep that are .160" apart. The purfling is .080 nominally and I had a bit that size for the dremel. The routing jig I made up years ago that utilizes the StewMac dremel base. This jig has always served me well. Using special cement from LMI for bonding plastic to wood I glued in the purflings. Then scraped them flush. Now I routed out the area between the purflings to .060" deep.
My abalone rosette is .050 to .055" so they went in snuggly to a depth that allows me to flood over the top with CA until it's flush with the purflings.
It's all in and I'll scrape and sand it all flush tomorrow.
I'll be using the same purfling on the top and back with flamed maple bindings and plan to have bw side puflings too.
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Re: A new OM starting
I cleaned up the rosette, all level and it looks really good. I got a nice tight fit of the plastic purflings. I found these easier to work with than the fiber purflings that swell in the channels when using titebond.....which is a good thing for a tight fit but can be tough getting them in quickly.
Anyway. Cut out the sound hole and cut the top brace stock. I got the X braces radiused, notched and fit together. The rest are basically ready also to glue down
Hope to get them glued down tomorrow.
Anyway. Cut out the sound hole and cut the top brace stock. I got the X braces radiused, notched and fit together. The rest are basically ready also to glue down
Hope to get them glued down tomorrow.
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