Re: First Concert Ukulele
Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:47 pm
I glued on the fret board and made a classical style BRW ukulele bridge. It took me a couple of tries but ultimately I got it done (I have most of the slotting done but cut the wings too thin on the band saw.
Not much to say about gluing on the fret board, just a bunch of clamps. I previously had the fret board indexed with 1/32" drill bits. Drilling in the slots
I make the bridge by first making a blank that is at finished size. Drum sander and plane.
Then I use my micro mill to cut a series of 1/8" slots. 1 for the saddle, a slightly deeper one for the inside tie block (also to the starting thickness of the wings) and then I cut ledges for shell on the tie block edges. I install the shell so that I can trim it flush when I do two parallel cuts to the wind thickness on both edges of the tie block. These cuts can also be done with a table saw with a ultra thin blade.
Two slots as described above and glued in abalone
Cutting the ends of the tie block (the inside edges of the wings)
I milled a bit more than 1/4" of the wings so I could fit my band saw blade in the slot and cut away for the center (yes going to the inside and slipping when I hit the slot is how I goofed up the first one).
I used a plane to remove a bunch of the extra bulk on the wings
I used a rasp to shape the wings. Note that the bridge is fully supported on a support a little wider than the bridge. The extra width helps to leave a minimum thickness to the wings. Also if working on the edge, have the rasp move toward the center to keep from chipping the edge. (happened to a friend once).
Once rough shaped I used this handy narrow stewmac fret leveler as a sand paper rasp. It is good for the wings and the edge of the tie block.
Not shown, I used a chisel to slope the inside of the tie block BRW is so nice to plane it went fast.
In any case here is the result. Still needs a bit of sanding and I just threw in a saddle for the picture.
Not much to say about gluing on the fret board, just a bunch of clamps. I previously had the fret board indexed with 1/32" drill bits. Drilling in the slots
I make the bridge by first making a blank that is at finished size. Drum sander and plane.
Then I use my micro mill to cut a series of 1/8" slots. 1 for the saddle, a slightly deeper one for the inside tie block (also to the starting thickness of the wings) and then I cut ledges for shell on the tie block edges. I install the shell so that I can trim it flush when I do two parallel cuts to the wind thickness on both edges of the tie block. These cuts can also be done with a table saw with a ultra thin blade.
Two slots as described above and glued in abalone
Cutting the ends of the tie block (the inside edges of the wings)
I milled a bit more than 1/4" of the wings so I could fit my band saw blade in the slot and cut away for the center (yes going to the inside and slipping when I hit the slot is how I goofed up the first one).
I used a plane to remove a bunch of the extra bulk on the wings
I used a rasp to shape the wings. Note that the bridge is fully supported on a support a little wider than the bridge. The extra width helps to leave a minimum thickness to the wings. Also if working on the edge, have the rasp move toward the center to keep from chipping the edge. (happened to a friend once).
Once rough shaped I used this handy narrow stewmac fret leveler as a sand paper rasp. It is good for the wings and the edge of the tie block.
Not shown, I used a chisel to slope the inside of the tie block BRW is so nice to plane it went fast.
In any case here is the result. Still needs a bit of sanding and I just threw in a saddle for the picture.