Yeah, 'skew' cut is the best way to go to avoid splitting and/or having the pin holes in line with the saddle and not in a straight horizontal line. As for cutting the saddle slot, there are options. In fact, many of the early 70's Guild guitars had a saddle slot that went right through the bridge so that the saddle actually rested on the guitar top. I imagine the idea was to have the vibrations go directly to the top and bridge-plate for better coupling(?). I have a Guild D-55 that was built like that. Same model as Tommy Smothers, but mine is a natural top.
Brent
Grain direction
Materials used - making - placing - gluing to the sound-board <-----<<< got to get this right!
Jump to
- Administration Messages
- AGCF is for friendly people -- Make sure you register using at least your real first name
- KMG Success Kit Assembly instructions
- Construction logs
- Gallery
- Shop Enviroment
- Hand Tools
- Power Tools
- Adhesives
- Specialized Guitar making tools and fixtures
- Materials Suitable for Acoustic Guitar Construction
- Side Bending
- Rosettes
- Sound-Boards (tops)
- Guitar Backs
- Voicing and Tap Tuning
- Rim Construction
- Neck Fabrication
- Putting it all together
- Pearl and Abalone
- Bindings and Purfling
- Neck Joint
- Fingerboards
- Bridges
- Preparation for finishing
- Finishing
- ↳ Nitro Lacquer
- ↳ Water Borne Finishes
- ↳ Shellac
- ↳ Tru Oil
- ↳ Finishing rooms and equipment
- Set-up
- Pick-ups and amplification
- Guitar construction book reviews
- "Shoot the Breeze"