If you join both of the board at the same time by holding them together they become book matched and the angle is the same even if the blade was a bit off from 90 degrees.
At least that's my experience. I haven't done guitar tops that way, but other things I have.
Plate joining question
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Re: Plate joining question
This is as bit late and the OP has moved on but a thought occurred to me about using a router table for a joiner. To make it work at all the table would need a fence where the in feed could be 1/16" or so in from the outfeed side (like a joiner works). Otherwise toward the end of the route it would be very hard to keep the plate from tipping toward the out feed. If the in feed was inset the depth of the cut then the plate would be supported by both sides of the fence.John Parchem wrote:You would be making a shiity joiner, it may work OK but at times you may get a bit of tear out especially on figured wood. Take a note of the differences between a good joiner and a router table with a straight bit.
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Re: Plate joining question
I like a shooting board and sharp plane. The key is even pressure and the smallest cut you can take. I sometimes sand with some angle aluminum with sandpaper stuck to it.
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Re: Plate joining question
I am with use I use a plane and a shooting board. I learned two things that made it easy for me:
At the start of the cut have your weight toward the front direction of travel assuring that the plane is not tilting up. At the end of the plane have the weight in back of the plane to make sure it is not tilting down.
If the plates have a convex curve in them, gaps at the top and bottom when jointed together, do some cuts in the center of the plates. I start small and make a few incrementally larger cuts centered in the plates until I finally make a couple full length cuts. The plane might follow a convex curve so you can cut away forever without removing the curve. Taking the high parts of the curve off allows one to make a nice jointed edge.
At the start of the cut have your weight toward the front direction of travel assuring that the plane is not tilting up. At the end of the plane have the weight in back of the plane to make sure it is not tilting down.
If the plates have a convex curve in them, gaps at the top and bottom when jointed together, do some cuts in the center of the plates. I start small and make a few incrementally larger cuts centered in the plates until I finally make a couple full length cuts. The plane might follow a convex curve so you can cut away forever without removing the curve. Taking the high parts of the curve off allows one to make a nice jointed edge.
- Scott Millbern
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Re: Plate joining question
I am wondering if anyone else uses a raubank (pointing plane??) upside down in a vase and running to boards along the plane?
I am building with a luthier who uses this method, and I found one for 30€ used, plus an hour tuning it up. I have joined a ukulele and a guitar top with pretty good results (I am pretty new at this
).
It seems to be a pretty inexpensive solution, if not terribly elegant.
I am building with a luthier who uses this method, and I found one for 30€ used, plus an hour tuning it up. I have joined a ukulele and a guitar top with pretty good results (I am pretty new at this

It seems to be a pretty inexpensive solution, if not terribly elegant.
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Re: Plate joining question
Never tried it that way. I find that having the plates on a shooting board and using a sharp plane is the easiest.