Acoustic Guitar Construction

Very useful, thanks Hans. Sorry for the mis-attribution - I was focused on that bracing scheme and did not notice much else.

PM sent.

This is an interesting situation. Happenstance has taken you to a place you would not ordinarily go, and so is something of an opportunity, as well as the obvious risk. I have several cedar tops that I would not be afraid to try 0.10 as their thickness. However, you say this one is "floppy" and mine are exceptionally "stiff" both ways. If the top was not exceptional in the first place, there may be no where to take it. That said, I once made a dread out of cedar that was stiff with the grain but not so stiff across and it turned out loud and mellow. But I thinned it to 0.12, not 0.10, though it was a full 16 inch dread. That top featured 100 grains to the inch (which explained its with the grain stiffness) but was comparatively weaaker across. Trees have the final say, I guess.

It might be worth it to try bracing it and seeing what happens, waiting until then to decide if the top is usable. I would use Guild-style braces (no scallops) thin and tall, so that wood could and would be easily removed, but leaving plenty of room in which to wiggle (and sweat blood). David Russell Young style bracing under the fingerboard in the upper bout would be safer than Martin style - it would help prevent collapse across the sound hole, combined with tall thin braces on each side of the soundhole.

The small body size certainly is on the side of stability and the smaller gits have a very appealing sound. This problematic top could be the start of one of the loudest guitars you ever made, of any size. Seems worth it to try, at least to the point of bracing it. It is a very good looking piece of wood as well.

Thanks for that encouragement, John. I am going to brace it up and see what I can do with it; not sure whether to go X or Ladder yet.

Don't see the problem - That's Classical Guitar thickness. You can send it to me if you like!!!!

Dave, I would definitely X-brace. Ladder bracing depends far more on the intrinsic strength of the soundboard.

I am very interested in how it turns out. Be sure and let us know.

+1 for the"X" --- Cedar tends to be fairly stiff across the grain with the grain not so much.

It's been 7 years since the last post (it flies) and I just happened across that top again, untouched.
Reviewing your input now, I'm encouraged to give this top a try, at least to the point of bracing it and seeing what's what.
I will try the Edwinson bracing that Hans recommended.
And, since I apparently have no self-control, may also use the 'broken X' that Taylor used for awhile.