Acoustic Guitar Construction

I love the old style table saws. Definitely a 9" blade on this one. I've found over the years that a quality blade is well worth the extra dollars. Freund makes some nice ones, inc. 9" sizes. More teeth per inch is always a good idea on fine woodwork. Carbide teeth in a guitar shop should stay sharp for years. Using the proper set for the job is important. Get a quality rip, cross cut and planner blade and your good for most every application. Fabricating belt covers with 1/4" plywood should be doable. Read up on featherboards, down cleats and make your push sticks with handles well above the blade.use that planner to get a straight edge to run along the fence. I always have a few small hardwood wedges on hand to avoid pinching the blade. Keep the blade height at a minimum above the stock you are cutting.
The saw should give you a lifetime of service. Enjoy.
Ken, I think you are seeing the fence rail at the end of the miter slot. The light makes an optical illusion. Look at the right side slot.

Table saws scare me. My main fear is not accidentally running my hands in the blade, but having a board I am pushing even with a push stick kick back taking the push stick with it and then my hand suddenly free of the load continues forward into the blade. I came really close once, it is amazing how slow the body is to react.

So when ripping I will not use a saw without a riving blade. Also I have the blade high over the wood when making a cut. If you draw out what is happening with the teeth of the blade you will see that a blade just above the wood delivers a lot of horizontal energy wanting to push the wood back; a blade that is high over the wood the teeth are mostly striking down on the wood.

I see your point on the high blade never realized that. I was taught to keep the blade just a bit over the top of the wood ur cutting. It seems the blade wouldn't be working as hard and if you do have an accident the cut won't be so deep. Also, and I know this is wrong I remove the blade guard it is to much of a distractent when cutting. Bottom line is respect and attention when using the table saw each and every time you turn it on.

I only lift the blade for ripping using a fence. For years I thought the same thing less blade showing was safer. I also thought the main danger of kick back was the flying board, so I always set myself to the side. I never thought of what can happen with your pushing hand after the board unexpectedly flies away. The picture I posted above game from a German insurance safety video. The video also advocated using a short fence only going about an inch past the start of the cut.

This video shows the danger - this guy knew the kickback was coming and was prepared for it, but when the film is slowed down you can see how close a thing it was. At about 4:20 you see the slowed-down footage.

From National Consumer's League:

Tagged: workplace issues, safety,
Did you know that each year, tens of thousands of people are brutally injured by table saws – including 4,000 amputations – at a cost of more than $2 billion a year to treat victims?

33% with guards in place 67% guards removed -- duh!

Ok, this saw takes up to a 9" blade.
Looking at combo blades with 40 teeth or greater, Freud offers a 9" at $60 and an 8" at $50.

My main use will be cross-cutting heel blocks, and I cannot realistically do a one-pass through 3 1/2" mahogany. So, two passes - will the 9" be of any great advantage for this application?

Hard to find a 9 these days, would not mind spending less!