Steve's KMG 000-12 kit

[Dave Bagwill]

Here's kind of a stumper.
We dished the neck cheeks, the tenon fits nicely into the mortise, the truss rod slot is just right, we sloped the top as per best practice (kmg) , the fb is straight, BUT when the neck heel is pressed up firmly to the headblock and all is well at that point, i.e., with the bridge taped in place the angles are all just right, we have the gap between the fb and top at the 12th fret.
If a straightedge is placed from the soundhole to the rim, there is some light that will show between the headblock area and the soundhole edge.

Any ideas??

[John Parchem]

I profile my rims a bit different, but that exactly looks like what I get when I put to much or uneven pressure on the radius dish I use. Nearly anytime I sand anything with any tool I round the edges.

I am assuming that changing the heel angle so that the neck can push back and accepting a bit of fall off would give too steep of an angle. Is that right?

Can you stick an ebony wedge in near the neck to body join to close the gap and call it good?

Looking at the second picture you might also consider sanding the top flatter under the extension and a slight reset of the neck angle.

[ken cierp]

I am wondering why this was not detected at this step:

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckfitpart1.html

You are sure it all the way in the mortise, no obstructions?

Am I understanding that you happy with the finger-board plane? It appears that perhaps the neck block was tipped inboard during assembly.

[Dave Bagwill]

I'll be Triple-checking all the variables again.
Yeah, I actually did that step early on, Ken, unless I spaced it completely. I hope not.
As for the block leaning inwards, I see your point and will check it further.
Thanks fellas. I'll get back with the results unless I will be embarrassing myself in the process. :-)
In any case, a well-done ebony shim, as I've seen done on many an instrument, will get us on our way.

[Dave Bagwill]

An exaggerated sketch, just to be clear.

[ken cierp]

I mis spoke the neck block may be tilted outboard. I agree with John, seems the sound board could use a little work -- but its difficult to tell with pixs

[Dave Bagwill]

We've already done some top work, and I'm reluctant to take off any more.
Not much I can do about the block, if it is tilted a skosh, except to shave the outer edges of the cheeks to compensate for it. Recommended? The trick would be to maintain the angles.